A Foodie’s Guide to Lisbon

Home to an endless string of buzzy food markets, chic cafes and fine dining eateries, Lisbon is a haven for foodies. But where do the locals eat? Bettina Campolucci Bordi embarked on a food-focused tour of the Portuguese capital, seeking out the city’s many hidden gems.

Lisbon Food Guide: A Chef’s Itinerary

A couple of weeks ago we headed to Lisbon for a friend’s wedding. In true Bettina fashion I started doing lots of research, messaging friends and digging up my saved Lisbon food lists. As always, I wanted to maximise my time and visit as many places as possible – and also avoid disappointment. But when I got there I suddenly thought, hang on a second, what happened to spontaneity? Getting lost and stumbling upon quaint little cafes? Walking past a place that has a queue and joining in? I scrunched up all the lists and decided that this time around we would walk the streets without a map, have conversations with locals on where to go and get lost in the city of steps.

Touching down in Lisbon on a Friday evening, we embraced light travel with just a rucksack each and a sense of adventure for the weekend ahead. Our base for the next 72 hours was the effortlessly cool and central Mama Shelter, a hotel which oozes energy and creativity.

On Saturday morning we began our day with a leisurely breakfast at the hotel before heading out to discover the city on foot. We had a quick chat with some of the kind hotel staff, who recommended some areas to visit that are more local.

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Alfama

Our first stop was Simpli Coffee, a hidden gem just around the corner from the hotel, where the smell of freshly ground beans and fresh pastries lures you in. Energised by our coffee, we wandered through the narrow, winding streets of the Alfama district. This is one of Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods, a maze of cobblestones with lots of colours and character, where life spills out of every doorway.

We stumbled upon the Feira da Ladra flea market, a treasure trove of antiques, vintage finds and local crafts. Not quite ready to stop exploring, we then indulged in a second breakfast at Tabernita, a small, unassuming spot that serves up local flavours with a side of neighbourhood charm. 

Mouraria

Our next stop was Mouraria, a historic and beautifully multicultural neighborhood that feels like Alfama’s wilder, more colourful cousin. There’s lots of street art, and tiny taverns beckon you to take a seat and stay a while. The neighbourhood feels authentic, untouched by the crowds that often flock to Lisbon’s more famous sights. A stop at Taberna do Calhau was non-negotiable: a cosy eatery where you can savour Portuguese classics like bacalhau, the beloved salted codfish, cooked to perfection.

After lunch, we wandered towards the bustling Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon’s main food market. From fresh seafood to sweet pastries, every stall has its own history and a great host that likes to have a chat. 

We had a few tasters before making our way to Chiado, a neighbourhood filled with chic shops and historic cafés. We couldn’t resist popping into Livraria Bertrand, the oldest operating book store in the world – a sanctuary for any book lover and a nice little break from the hustle and bustle. As the afternoon stretched on, we found ourselves in Bairro Alto, a place where the city seems just a little brighter – and the perfect spot to get lost in the magic of Lisbon. 

When dinnertime called, we went to the one place that we had been recommended that I was very keen on trying: Taberna Meia Porta, a hidden gem that has only been open for four months but feels like an instant classic. The ambiance was intimate, the food was unforgettable, and the experience was one to remember, with only a few tables, a great small selection of wines and a small but perfectly executed menu. We ended the evening with cocktails at Liquid Love – an off the beaten track spot with great vibes.

Lisbon’s Best Pastel de Nata?

Sunday greeted us with some much needed sunshine, and with the promise of a classic Lisbon breakfast at the iconic Pastéis de Belém. No visit to Lisbon is complete without savouring these famous custard tarts, fresh from the oven and dusted with cinnamon and sugar. The journey to Belém for these little bites of heaven is worth every step. We spent the rest of the day celebrating love at a beautiful wedding.

Comporta

On Monday morning, with the weekend slowly coming to a close, we decided to venture further afield. We headed out to Comporta for the day, a charming coastal escape where wild beaches stretch for miles, and you get a good dose of salty sea air. 

Lisbon, with its winding streets and hidden gems, had worked its magic on us and given us a dose of culture. Comporta, however, is all about those chilled out, sun-soaked days by the beach and enjoying life at a slower pace. Head to Cavalariça Comporta in the village for breakfast – this place is cosy and full of character, as it used to be an old stable. They serve up freshly baked bread, local cheeses, cured meats, and homemade jams that are all about keeping it simple and delicious. Pair it with a fresh juice or a strong Portuguese coffee, and you’re set for the day.

Comporta is known for its laid-back vibe, but some new spots are bringing a touch of style to the area. JNcQUOI Deli Comporta is a buzzy deli that’s all about blending the chic vibe of Lisbon with Comporta’s laid-back feel. It’s perfect if you’re in the mood for some gourmet food, a nice glass of wine, or just want to chill on their terrace. 

We headed to the airport in the afternoon and caught the evening flight back to London feeling suitably replete and well-fed – the perfect way to end a foodie weekend break. Lisbon, we will be back!

Bettina is the founder of Bettina’s Kitchen