Why Is Lab-Grown Food Controversial?

Lab-grown food might feel like something from a far-reaching dystopian film. Yet cell-cultivated products are already on the shelves in certain countries – and could be on sale in the UK within just two years. Dog food made in factory vats was sold in Britain for the first time last month, and the Food Standards Agency (FSA) is looking into ways it can speed up the approval process for human consumption. However, the topic has sparked widespread debate. 

Some argue lab-grown food could have benefits for food safety, offer nutritional perks and help reduce greenhouse gas emissions. But others have raised concern about the unknown health risks, as well as questioning whether it will really be a positive for the environment.

The Pros And Cons Of Lab-Grown Food

What Is Lab-Grown Food?

Also known as cell-cultivated products, lab-grown food is essentially any type of food made without normal farming methods, such as rearing livestock or growing plants. Instead, the food is created in a laboratory (a facility used for scientific experiments) by cultivating bacteria, enzymes and stem cells. 

Lab-grown meat such as steaks, burgers and sausages is made using tiny stem cells from live animals, which are then grown in a controlled environment. As the Good Food Institute’s website explains: ‘These cells are then grown in bioreactors (known colloquially as cultivators) at high densities and volumes. The cells are fed an oxygen-rich cell culture medium containing basic nutrients such as amino acids, glucose, vitamins, and inorganic salts, and typically supplemented with growth factors and other proteins.’

Companies are also experimenting with lab-grown fish like salmon, which is generated in the same way. And the first lab-grown whole cow’s milk is set to debut in the US soon, created by a Boston-based startup called Brown Foods. Designed to match the taste, texture and nutrition of cow’s milk, the idea is it can be transformed into butter, cheese and more.

It’s also possible to create fruit and vegetables in a lab, with initial trials involving blueberries, peaches, cherries and grapes. Regulators in Australia, meanwhile, have been given the green light to grow a genetically modified banana, which is resistant to a deadly fungus that’s impacting production.

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Is Lab-Grown Meat Vegan?

Although no animals are harmed in the production of lab-grown meat, technically it’s not classed as vegan as products are still derived from animal cells. ‘Veganism as a philosophy is concerned with ending the exploitation of, and cruelty to, non-human animals,’ says the Vegan Society. ‘As such, it’s understandable that some vegans may be drawn to the possibilities of this technology. However, as our policy position makes clear, cultured meat is not vegan or a panacea for the horrors of animal use and exploitation.’

What Are The Potential Benefits?

Advocates for lab-grown meat point to environmental benefits: cultivated meats could theoretically slow climate change driven by greenhouse gas emissions associated with raising livestock. This argument was backed up by researchers from the University of Helsinki, who concluded that switching meat, dairy and other animal products to the likes of lab-grown food could reduce pressures on the planet by 80 percent. 

Some also highlight animal welfare benefits, as lab-grown meat will reduce the need for slaughtering animals. People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), for instance, supports lab-grown meat, and has previously awarded grants to related research projects.

Scientists have suggested lab-grown meat could offer nutritional benefits, as it can be customised with added vitamins – plus it doesn’t contain antibiotics (traditionally raised livestock are given antibiotics to keep them healthy, which can lead to resistance in humans). There’s also a theory that being grown in a laboratory means it’s less likely to be infected by contaminants like E.coli. 

What Are The Drawbacks?

Others have questioned the supposed environmental perks of growing food in a laboratory. One study found cultivated meat could actually be 25 times worse for the climate than regular beef, based on current production methods. There’s also concern large-scale production could lead to large challenges surrounding waste management. 

Another key area of contention is the lack of clarity on the long-term health effects – plus, there’s the issue of whether lab-grown food can be classed as ultra-processed, something we’re all being advised to cut down on.

What’s Next?

Singapore was the first country to approve lab-grown meat in 2020, followed by the US in 2023. So could the UK be next? Over the next two years, the FSA will be undertaking a safety assessment surrounding lab-grown food, with the hopes they can go on sale in 2027. ‘Safe innovation is at the heart of this programme,’ said FSA chief scientific advisor Professor Robin May. ‘By prioritising consumer safety and making sure new foods like CCPs are safe, we can support growth in innovative sectors. Our aim is to ultimately provide consumers with a wider choice of new food, while maintaining the highest safety standards.’