Charmaine And Mark McHugo On Creating A Green Michelin-Star Restaurant In Hay-On-Wye

How do modern business owners ‘do’ sustainability? It’s a tough gig but Mark and Charmaine McHugo seem to have it figured out – the restauranteurs behind Hay-on-Wye’s Chapters won a Michelin Green Star for its conscious culinary approach. It enjoys its very own kitchen-garden, cultivated by Charmaine while Mark steers the kitchen, which forms a core part of Chapters’ food philosophy. We sat down with the husband-and-wife duo to find out what ‘doing’ sustainability looks like for them.

Interview: Charmaine and Mark McHugo, The Minds Behind Green Michelin Starred Restaurant Chapters, Hay-On-Wye

What’s your food philosophy?

Mark: Work with the seasons. At our restaurant this means lots of preservation during the summer and autumn, which gives us our chutneys and pickles to freshen dishes during the colder months.

Charmaine: My personal philosophy could be summed up as: simple, unfussy seasonal food – with a good helping of carbs.

What does a green star mean to you?

Charmaine: Receiving the Green Star was such a lovely recognition of work that we put into Chapters. It is not easier or cheaper to have a ‘green’ business but for us there is no choice but to work in this way.

Mark preparing a dish at Chapters

What makes food ‘sustainable’ in your eyes?

Mark: The word sustainable is a little overused – the meaning has been a bit lost. But if I see places saying they are sustainable I would assume that they take extra care when choosing the items to serve on their menus (both food and drink) in particular where they are getting their meat and fish from.

Charmaine: It also means human sustainability, i.e. treating staff well, whether that’s higher wages or longer holidays. Sustainability is linked to all aspects of business.

You have a kitchen-garden – how does it influence the food on your menu?

Mark: It has given us opportunity to try different types of ingredients. For example, instead of hispi cabbage we use Tree Cabbage. Instead of potato we might use Oca. Coming up on our late spring menu is a Tiramisu where we use chicory root from the garden to get coffee flavours into the dish.

Charmaine: The garden really helps us plan our menus. We chat throughout the year about what is being planted and what is coming up for harvest. It gives us much more of an idea of what will go on future menus rather than just deciding each week from scratch.

How do you deal with the volatile elements in your kitchen-garden? 

Charmaine: Every year is so different so it’s good to learn from each year but don’t assume it is going to go the same way. Last year was so wet but so far this year we have fingers crossed – it was a nice cold, dry start to the year, which is perfect. Climate change really is already changing the ways that we have to grow and think about food. Thinking ahead with seed saving and having water butts to collect water is a good start for most home gardeners and on a global scale we need governments to start looking after our food producers and farmers. 

How do you think we can make food fairer for everyone?

Mark: We are big supporters of the Slow Food movement which is an international organisation that supports fair food for everyone. Personally, I think education is key, people need to learn what to do with ingredients and how to get the most out of them – also understanding that meat doesn’t have to feature in every meal means that you start to buy less but better and your money goes further. 

Charmaine in the kitchen-garden at Chapters

What should we be planting right now?

Charmaine: We love using Real Seeds for our seeds – organic and grown in Wales so we know they have a better chance of doing well here. They have lots of heritage varieties and some that are pretty rare which is nice. So those! I’m a big fan of anything perennial or that self seeds, as it frees up a little time. 

Do you think Welsh restaurants receive enough attention?

Mark: No but I do think there is a growing interest in Wales. What might surprise people is that being in Wales doesn’t mean we have access to less. In the local area to our restaurant we have amazing people making tea, coffee, wine, beer, ciders, spirits, cured meats, cheeses, dairy products such as milk, cream and butter… Plus all the amazing farmers and growers… Plus the Welsh coast, which is the best place to get shellfish. We have it all in Wales! 

Quick Fire 

What was the first dish you learnt to cook?

Mark: Spaghetti bolognese but with gluten-free pasta. I was gluten-intolerant growing up – I am as a result very sympathetic of dietaries when designing menus at Chapters.

Charmaine: Probably lasagne. Mum taught us young how to make dishes from scratch, shortcrust pastry for quiche and bechamel sauces.

What’s your favourite in season ingredient and why?

Mark: Wild Garlic. We forage quite a lot of this during the spring and use it through out the year.

Your go-to throw-it-together dinner?

Mark: Vegetable Curry. A great way to use up lots of vegetables and with a nice spice blend super easy to make.

Charmaine: I rarely cook at home! If Mark is away, it tends to be very basic food, like pasta pesto.

What’s in your fridge right now?

Mark: Some cavolo nero from the garden and various kilner jars of pickled veg – onion, red cabbage, carrot – which are great for perking up any salad.

When you’re not in the kitchen, where are you?

Mark: During the spring I am out walking a lot, which generally turns into a bit of a forage.

Charmaine: The garden or sat with the cats. 

What restaurant should everyone try before they die?

Mark: St John’s in London.

Charmaine: We visit Bristol quite a bit, too, and there are so many places to go and eat – Poco, Wilson’s, Bravas, Marmo, Clouds, to name a few. 

What cookbook do you refer to the most?

Mark: Not sure about the most but most recently I was rereading Simon Rogan’s book. It includes lots of wild food and is a great inspiration.

What’s your favourite comfort snack?

Mark: Cuppa tea and a chocolate biscuit.

Charmaine: I have a pretty serious crisp addiction. 

And what’s your biggest tip for reducing food waste?

Charmaine: Think before you buy something. Especially with fresh food or items that you can’t freeze.

Mark: Yes I agree, just buy what you need and don’t be scared to freeze the things you can. Batch cooking is a great way to use everything up at home.

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