Inside Faber, Hammersmith’s Brand New Fish Restaurant

7 months ago

West London gets a slice of the seaside

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In the mood for seafood? This West London fish restaurant should most definitely be on your radar. Martha Davies reviews Faber.

Restaurant Review: Faber, Hammersmith

If you’re searching for a taste of the sea, you’ll find it on Hammersmith Road, just opposite the tube station. Yes, really – it might not occupy the most scenic spot, but step inside Faber and it really doesn’t matter: the staff are wonderful, the décor is gorgeous, and, most importantly, the food is excellent.

Faber’s focus is sustainability, so you can expect offerings that regularly change depending on the produce available from British fishmongers and coastal farms. The menu is divided into light bites and small plates alongside a few meat and veggie options, but the main attraction here is, of course, the seafood. Once you’ve thought about drinks (there are plenty of British wines on offer, and the cocktail selection is a treasure trove of spirits and botanicals from around the UK) you’ll be presented with a list of daily specials including oysters, prawns and whole fish dishes. The staff are on hand to give advice, and you’ll probably need it; everything is so tempting, it’s difficult to know where to begin.

Kick things off with some sourdough and salted butter if you like, or dive right into the Maldon oysters – ours were dressed with Sobrasada (a type of Spanish cured sausage), and the soft, paprika-infused meat perfectly balanced out the saltiness of the fish. Such brilliant pairings were evident throughout: the chalkstream trout tartare was topped with nori and caviar for a subtle, briny tang, while the scallops were finished with yoghurt and, ingeniously, a touch of pastis.

Executive chef Ollie Bass (aptly named, it would seem, for this particular ocean-inspired venture) has really nailed it when it comes to variety, and it’s clear that every type of fish has been expertly prepared. Long sprigs of rosemary perched on top of our langoustines, which were a real standout (though admittedly a bit of a luxury) – they were cooked to perfection and brimming with flavour, served with blood orange for a zesty kick. If you’re looking for a palette cleanser, try the asparagus: nestled within a healthy serving of Spenwood sheep’s cheese, it was a real delight.

The beauty of such fresh, carefully-sourced food is that it leaves you feeling full but never uncomfortably so – meaning there’s more than enough space for dessert. Go for the sticky toffee pudding if you’re craving a classic, but we found the real showstopper to be the honey tart, which was gorgeously creamy and only subtly sweet, offset by a dollop of creme fraiche. When you polish off your pudding, finish your coastal-inspired cocktail and head back outside, you might find yourself surprised to remember that you’re not, in fact, at the beach.