Why Is Haggis Banned In America?
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4 hours ago
The story behind the Scottish national dish
Tomorrow is Burns Night, the annual celebration of the life of Scotland’s national bard, Robert Burns. Special suppers take place across Scotland and beyond, featuring long-standing traditions like bagpipes, renditions of Auld Lang Syne, plenty of whisky, and of course the ultimate Burns Night meal: haggis. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea – but the dish is synonymous with Scottish culture, so where did it come from? And why is it banned in America?
Haggis: History Of The Burns Night Staple
What Is Haggis?
Haggis has been around for hundreds of years, with the earliest reference to the dish appearing in a 13th century poem by English knight Walter of Bibbesworth. The origins of the word are uncertain: some believe it was derived from the Scottish word hag, which means to chop or chew, while others argue it comes from the French verb hacher or hager, translating as ‘to hack’.
This quintessentially Scottish dish is not for the faint-hearted. A type of savoury pudding, it’s made from the liver, heart and lungs of sheep, which is then minced with onion, suet, spices and salt, before being mixed with stock and cooked in the sheep’s stomach. It has a rich, meaty flavour, often described as tasting like a crumbly sausage, with peppery notes and a bit of sweetness from the onions. Haggis is often served with neeps and tatties: mashed swede or turnips and potatoes.
Why Is Haggis Eaten On Burns Night?
Haggis was popularised by Burns in his 1786 poem Address To A Haggis, a tribute to Scottish cuisine and culture in which he describes the delicacy as ‘great chieftan of the sausage race’. Five years after the poet died, his friends got together to celebrate his life, serving haggis in his memory – and so the Burns Night tradition was born.
Many festivities today involve a bagpiper playing a song while the chef carries the haggis into the dining room. A designated speaker then recites the aforementioned poem while holding a ceremonial knife, cutting the haggis to symbolise the commencement of the meal.
Why Is Haggis Banned In America?
Haggis has been banned in the United States since 1971, when the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) made it illegal to import food from the UK containing sheep lung after deeming it a food safety risk. Over the years, there have been petitions to end the ban, including one submitted back in 2014 by the UK’s environment secretary Owen Paterson, but these have all been rejected. There are also stories of bootleg operations: chef Nick Nairn, for instance, allegedly smuggled haggis to New York in a suitcase for a client.
But could Americans soon be able to legally enjoy the dish? Haggis maker Macsween of Edinburgh is currently developing a new version of haggis made without offal (sheep lung) to comply with regulations, with hopes the product will launch in time for Burns Night next year.