Inside Mayfair’s Newest Restaurant Horá
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11 hours ago
We tried Dover Street's latest culinary opening
Horá is a cool Mayfair restaurant with style and substance in equal measure, says Susan Springate
Review: Horá, Mayfair
It was a spring day in London, but we were instantly transported to a sultry summer afternoon on the Mediterranean once inside Hóra, Mayfair’s new dining destination on Dover Street. Polished plaster walls in earthy tones and natural materials create a warm and welcoming environment. The décor is simple but stylish: a stunning central bar of roughly-hewn stone taking centre stage, surrounded by a range of seating options, from large round tables or cosy banquettes, to a show-stopping long wooden table and rustic bench by a back-lit wall. There’s a semi-open kitchen which allows guests to experience the artistry of the chefs up close, and a terrace connected to Dover Street which opens in the summer.
Inspired by traditional Mediterranean flavours and ‘the raw beauty of the coastal shores of Greece and Italy’, Hóra is the latest venture for executive chef John Skotidas, known for his culinary ingenuity across renowned restaurants like Hovarda, Mazi, Suzi Tros and Zephyr in London, as well as Abra Ovata in Athens.
Do not expect your typical Greek fayre, however. Hóra is Mazi’s sophisticated older sister, and the culmination of Skotidas’ unique Greek-Japanese-Filipino heritage, and South American upbringing. A recent first-time father, Skotidas very nearly didn’t accept the offer to head up the latest project of London-based restaurateur Dimitris Lytras – he had another baby to consider after all. But we’re pleased he did.
Defined as ‘Mediterranean avant-garde’, I’ll admit I was slightly expecting the food would be all presentation and little soul. Happily, I was wrong. This was a meal that was both generous and indulgent, with style and substance in equal measure.
The menu is divided up into four signature selections: Crudo (raw), Flora (vegetables), Mare (fish) and Farma (meat), kicking off with the Ante section, a clutch of appetisers, served on a large wooden platter in exquisite ceramic bowls. The cured cod roe, otherwise known as taramasalata, is a revelation. Not only is it white, unlike the usually pink versions we have been used to in our supermarkets for decades, but it’s soft and light, topped with a crispy potato, which is a delightful counterbalance to the whipped texture of the fishy mousse.
The umami-rich miso-glazed smoked aubergine with za’atar and honey and a fresh winter truffle, a take on the Japanese dish nasu dengaku, was my favourite, while the spiced cheese, comprising feta cheese mousse with a delicious topping of roasted peppers and thyme, I left to my husband. I am not a fan of feta, I’m afraid, although the pepper topping was delicious.
All come with an artisan basket of focaccia, drizzled with olive oil, sourdough and kalamata grissini, accompanied by a scoop of hoisin butter, which is truly a melt-in-the-mouth experience, full of salty, sweet and smoky notes. I feel hungry just thinking of it. I could have feasted on the Ante happily until I was full – and it’s certainly an idea if you just want a couple of drinks and a snack.
Hóra scores a huge success with the Crudo section. I chose the tuna tartare, diced bluefin tuna loin and belly, dressed in a jalapeño ponzu, a citrusy broth packed with flavour, while my husband selected the beef dry-aged fillet tartare bound together with a Thai curry ketchup, shiso, and a confit egg yolk, oozing with umami flavour. Both were again beautifully presented in exquisite ceramic bowls, designed by the folks at Hóra we were told, and made by London-based Sofia Ceramics, who supply many hotels and restaurants including Ottolenghi and Annabel’s.
There were a range of more unusual options on the Mare and Farma list, including sea urchin pasta and braised rooster in wine, but we played it safe, I am ashamed to say, and shared an entire sea bass, infused with chilli oil and cooked on the robata grill. The fish was flavoursome and succulent, and a thing of beauty. It came with an array of vegetable side dishes: a variety of seasonal tomatoes – the best are from the Isle of Wight apparently – then root vegetables cooked in salt dough with Chinese five spice and chervil purée, along with charred tenderstem broccoli with dill, spring onions and a sesame goma dressing. The final side was a charred courgette and savoy cabbage fricassée with shiso and lemon, which was so filling and flavoursome, that it could have easily been served as a meal in itself.
You can choose from sea bass or turbot, or bone-in sirloin or côte de boeuf with the accompanying Flora on the set lunch menu for just £45 per person, which considering the quality and quantity of the food, is very good value, considering you are in Mayfair.
I managed to find room for dessert, on the Dulcia section of the menu. I had my heart set on the pistachio millefeuille with pistachio custard, sour cherry and basil, created by pastry chef Asuka Mizushina, but sadly it was off that day so I settled for the Terramisu, coffee ice-cream with orange and crispy chocolate, which, like so much on this menu, was a sophisticated reinterpretation of a timeless classic.
A very cool Mayfair restaurant, but once inside the warmth of the staff and décor is matched by the exquisite food.
FINAL WORD:
Go for the set lunch menu at £45 which unlike some set lunch menus does not cut corners and gives you the full Hóra experience at a very reasonable price.
