Inside The River Café Café

Ina Yulo Stuve tries The River Café Café, the new outpost from the team behind one of London’s most beloved restaurants, The River Cafe 

Review: The River Café Café

When you’re the follow-up act to a restaurant that has, for nearly four decades, held the title of being one of the grand dames of London’s restaurant scene, how are you expected to compete? The simple answer is, you don’t. When famed restaurateur Ruth Rogers opened The River Café as a staff canteen in 1987, she couldn’t have foreseen the impact it would have on the capital’s dining industry. Chefs like Jamie Oliver, Theo Randall, and April Bloomfield all spent time cutting their teeth in the restaurant’s kitchen, which has held a Michelin star for nearly thirty years. So when Rogers announced she was opening a second restaurant on the river, we knew we had to make our way over to Hammersmith.

Simply named The River Café Café, the legendary Italian restaurant’s little sister is a casual, more accessible option to its older sibling, while its location right next door allows for the same riverside views and excellent cooking. There’s no competition to be had as the new iteration feels more like an extension of the original. When I visit at lunchtime, the dining room is filled with employees on their lunch breaks, a family gathering for a birthday celebration, and friends meeting up for coffee. 

The all-day menu, created by executive chefs Joseph Trivelli and Sian Wyn Owen, is split into antipasti, pastas, vegetables, a selection of charcuterie and cheeses, and desserts. Unlike your average café, there’s a  fully stocked bar set behind a stainless steel counter, offering a glimpse into the extensive drinks menu, which ranges from craft cocktails – pink pepper negroni, anyone? – and premium spirits, to aperitivi and non-alcoholic options. I’m tempted by a mocktail made with botivo and ginger beer – a zingy little number that goes well with one of our starters, a pizzetta with rosemary and sliced potatoes.

The pasta here is made by the same skilled hands as the Michelin-starred institution next door, so we order two for good measure – rigatoni with a tasty sauce made out of Italian sausage, Chianti, and chilli; and a lusciously simple tagliatelle al limone made with Amalfi lemons and crème fraîche. A fresh and delightfully bitter puntarelle salad makes for the perfect side to balance everything out. For dessert, a definite must-order comes in the form of a delicious hazelnut and praline ice cream coupe – I would go back for that dish alone! 

The Lowdown

Where is The River Café Café?

The River Café Café is located right across the original River Café in Hammersmith. The address is Thames Wharf Studios, Rainville Road, London W6 9HA.

Is it pet-friendly?

Yes, pets are welcome.

Do they serve vegan/gluten-free options?

Yes, the restaurant caters for both gluten-free and vegan diets.

What’s the price range?

Breakfast items start at £4 while the main menu ranges from £7 for bruschetta and pastas for £20-£25. 

Are all pastas freshly made?

Yes, all pastas are made daily from the same kitchen as The River Café.

Do they offer takeaway?

Yes, all cakes, hot drinks, and breakfast cornetti are available for takeaway.

Do they welcome walk-ins?

Yes, you can book tables in advance, but there are always tables reserved for walk-ins too.

Book your table and see the full menus at rivercafe.co.uk