Credit: Rebecca Hope

Restaurant Review: JOIA, Battersea

11 months ago

British winter getting you down? Head here for a taste of Portugal

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Credit: Rebecca Hope

It’s hard to deny: food just seems to taste better at a rooftop restaurant. If you’re in the mood for sky-high dining, you can’t beat JOIA, which is perched atop the Art’otel Battersea. Martha Davies reviews.

JOIA, Battersea – Restaurant Review

Towering over Battersea Power Station – with the infamous chimneys in full view – you might expect JOIA to bring all the bustle of Battersea right up to its fifteenth-storey spot. But although it’s got all the polished sophistication of the revamped power station, JOIA offers a much more serene experience. With its far-reaching views and gorgeous interiors, the restaurant is tranquil and utterly elegant – the perfect place to while away an afternoon over a cocktail and some excellent food.

JOIA interiors, with powder pink and turquoise chairs and circular Art Deco mirrors.

Credit: Matt Russell

And the food really is excellent. As the first London eatery from two Michelin-starred Portuguese chef Henrique Sá Pessoa, JOIA combines classic Iberian cooking with seasonal British produce. We arrived on a particularly gloomy Sunday to sample one of the set lunch menus, and our spirits were instantly lifted by the prospect of tapas, seafood and delectable wine.

While JOIA’s general menu is extensive, the new set menus (available on Friday and Sundays) are more pared back, offering a number of small plates followed by a choice of three main courses and two desserts, plus two side dishes. The meal kicks off with padron peppers, Iberico ham croquettes, wonderfully garlicky Pan con Tomate, and smoky grilled leeks scattered with hazelnuts.

For the main event, we decided to forego the veggie option (Veganuary is long gone, after all) and opt for Seafood Cataplana and a rack of lamb. The former is a Portuguese dish consisting of clams, prawns and potatoes enveloped in a deliciously fragrant stew, while the latter was served in a rich pancetta sauce with crispy potatoes. Both were superb, and elevated further by our side dishes: green salad tossed in a moscatel dressing, and tenderstem broccoli with almonds.

Bowl of poached rhubarb topped with white port sorbet.

Credit: Rebecca Hope

Having seized the opportunity to try some of JOIA’s signature cocktails and Portuguese wine, we were suitably stuffed as the afternoon marched on; pudding, however, was a must. The basque cheesecake was delightfully fluffy – its creaminess cut through with a sharp quince compote – but the poached rhubarb was most definitely the star of the show. It looked as vibrant (and Instagrammable) as the restaurant’s powder pink furniture, and it tasted just as impressive, finished off with lime, red pepper and an irresistible white port sorbet. With rainclouds hovering beyond the windows, it gave us the perfect taste of much sunnier climes.