Lucky Cat: Gordon Ramsay’s Mayfair Restaurant Remains Top Of Its Game

Is Gordon Ramsay still striking it lucky at his Asian-inspired Mayfair restaurant? Susan Springate thinks so. 

Restaurant Review: Lucky Cat, Mayfair

One of the first things you’ll notice as you arrive at Lucky Cat is an entire wall lined with 300 ceramic statuettes of waving cats. In Japan, you’ll find the so-called maneki-neko displayed at most restaurants and shops, beckoning in customers, ideally bringing their owners boundless good fortune and prosperity.

Well, it seems to have done the trick for Gordon Ramsay at his Asian-inspired restaurant at the Marriott Grosvenor Square in Mayfair. Since it opened four years ago on the former site of The Maze, it has been bursting to the brim with diners ravenous for its lively blend of popular Asian dishes served in a clubby atmosphere.

Inspired by Tokyo’s 1930s kissas and Shanghai’s drinking dens, it feels like an experience coming for dinner at Lucky Cat. Designed by AfroditiKrassa, the team behind Dishoom, it’s a supercool environment with a thought-out layout so that every table offers a great perspective of the entire room. With an underlying art-deco influence, the space is furnished with intricately curved brass screens, antique mirrors, black bamboo panelling and Japanese indigo dyed fabrics that build a luxurious undertone. 

We were shown to our banquette booth, with its soft leather seating, opposite the Raw Bar where expert sushi chefs busied themselves throughout the evening. 

Lucky Cat boasts an impressive cocktail menu, so without further ado we opted for the intriguingly-named Lucky Negroni, which requires you to choose your poison at the roll of a dice from six different negroni blends. Mine was smooth and classic while my husband’s was laced with spicy notes.

The menu itself is a series of small plates and Robata grilled dishes, as well as the expected sushi and sashimi offerings. Our charming and attentive waitress Ashley recommended around six plates between us, which proved spot on.

We started with the iconic Cantonese dish Salt and Pepper Baby Squid, as tasty, crunchy and beautifully salty as the name suggests. A single portion of the Hand Dived Scallops was not enough, however. The freshness of the scallops paired beautifully with the citrusy notes of the yuzu, while the sweetcorn hot sauce delivered a delightful kick that lingered on the palate. 

It would have been amiss to ignore the tempura section, so we opted for the Prawn Shiso Tempura which was another highlight: plump and juicy prawns wrapped in a light, crispy batter that gave way to succulent sweetness with every bite. The aromatic shiso leaf added a subtle herbal accent meanwhile, that elevated the dish to new heights. 

For our main courses, we pushed the boat out and opted for the Korean Black Cod and the Wagyu sirloin, both of which showcased the restaurant’s commitment to quality ingredients and expert preparation. The cod was perfectly cooked, with a smoky char that enhanced its natural sweetness, while the wagyu beef, proved a decadent indulgence, with its delicate marbling and buttery flavour. Still, at £115 a pop, it should be good. 

How lovely then to discover that the Garlic Fried Bok Choy on the side was more reasonably priced at £13, yet no less excellent, striking the perfect balance between crispness and tenderness, and pairing beautifully with the delicate texture of the beef and cod. 

Then there was the Egg Fried Rice, a simple everyday dish presented with a touch of theatre, its chopped vegetables and runny egg sunny side up lying decoratively in the bowl before being mixed into a buttery mélange by the waiter and we looked on. 

There were so many interesting combinations and exquisite flavours throughout – yet the standout dish for me was the exceptional sashimi selection we enjoyed towards the beginning of the meal. This involved expertly sliced pieces of salmon, yellowtail, akami, chutoro and sea bass served on a bed of ice atop a decorative platter, creating a stunning display that was as pleasing to the eye as it was to the taste buds.

There was little space for dessert, although we did manage to find room for a Yuzu and Passion Fruit Soufflé between us. The restaurant offers a Pastry Masterclass for £100 where you can learn how to make this and several other of the desserts on the menu if you want to impress your friends. 

Otherwise, sit back and enjoy the experience. You’ll feel like the cat that’s got the cream. Purrrfect!

THE FINAL WORD

If you’re looking for a restaurant that feels like a fun night out, this could be your lucky day. Lucky Cat is not cheap, but is big on atmosphere and delivers a culinary experience that hits the spot.

BOOK IT

10 Grosvenor Square, Mayfair, London W1K 6JP. gordonramsayrestaurants.com