Margarita Forés On Cooking For Barack Obama And Martha Stewart

When a young Margarita Forés was working for Valentino in New York in her 20s, running a restaurant empire, working as a United Nations Ambassador for Gastronomic Tourism, being named Asia’s Best Female Chef couldn’t have been further from her mind. But it was her time at the renowned fashion house that ignited her passion for all things Italian and brought her to Tuscany, where she learned how to cook under the guidance of the local signoras.

Margarita now runs a successful catering business alongside four restaurants: Cibo, a relaxed Italian dining concept with over 30 locations across the Philippines; Lusso, her sophisticated all-day restaurant known for its signature foie gras burger; Grace Park, a pioneer in the country’s farm-to-table movement; and The Loggia at Palacio de Memoria, an outdoor dining destination set within the grounds of a heritage home. Find out how this powerhouse restaurateur champions Filipino cuisine and what it was like to cook for presidents and A-list chefs.

Interview With Filipino Chef Margarita Forés

Tell us about your food journey – how you started cooking and what made you decide to open your first restaurant…

My love for food started in New York during the ‘Italianisation’ period, when authentic Italian restaurants, primarily focusing on risotto and thin-crust pizza, were opening. I fell in love with fresh pasta and the cuisine, which coincided with my work at Valentino. This immersion into Italian culture led me to cook for friends, and that’s how it all began.  

Opening my first restaurant took a decade. After spending four months in Italy, I returned to Manila and started with small catering events. Eventually, the demand grew, leading to weddings and larger functions. Catering gave me flexibility, but opening a restaurant felt like a long-term commitment, like a marriage. It required me to be present daily.  

What made you shift gears from doing Italian food to farm-to-table Filipino food?  

My time in Italy taught me the deep respect Italians have for their ingredients. This inspired me to rediscover and appreciate our own Filipino produce, leading me to celebrate Filipino farmers and ingredients in Grace Park.  

Describe Filipino food in three words…  

Complex, diverse, and somewhat under-appreciated.  

The dish you recommend to anyone wanting an introduction to Filipino food…  

Kinilaw. It’s a raw seafood dish cured in vinegar, representing our indigenous way of cooking before external influences and colonisation. Unlike ceviche or crudo, kinilaw uses vinegar as a primary ingredient, making it distinctly Filipino.

How do you approach being a culinary ambassador?  

I embrace every opportunity to travel and share Filipino cuisine with the world. Whether through collaboration dinners or culinary events, I strive to represent our rich food culture globally.  

What’s your favourite restaurant in the Philippines?  

From my restaurants, I would say Grace Park as it reflects my heritage and passion for local ingredients. Outside of my establishments, Toyo Eatery by chef Jordy Navarra stands out for its modern yet authentic approach to Filipino cuisine.  

The most memorable event you’ve catered for?  

The Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation Summit dinner in 2015. We served 800 guests, including President Barack Obama, featuring a beautifully-curated Filipino menu.  

You have formed connections with iconic chefs around the world like Massimo Bottura, Margot Henderson, and the late Anthony Bourdain. In what ways have they inspired your cooking?  

I’ve been truly inspired by the passion of the chefs I’ve met and collaborated with. Their love for the industry constantly motivates me to infuse that same dedication into my own work.  

The guest you served who made you starstruck…  

Martha Stewart. I was a huge fan when I was starting out and having the chance to cook for her at the National Museum of the Philippines was an unforgettable experience.  

Your best meal in recent months was at…  

A lunch at the Noma pop-up in Kyoto, which highlighted Japanese produce with the signature Noma touch. It was special not just for the food but also for the company – my son, his fiancée, and her mother.

Speaking of your son, he’s followed in your footsteps and is now a restaurateur himself. How do you work with him when it comes to menu development and crafting his business approach?  

It seems like Amado has learned by osmosis. He never really expressed an early interest in joining the restaurant industry, so it was quite a surprise when, five years ago, he decided to open his own restaurant. That’s when I realised he had absorbed a lot just from being around me over the years. What’s exciting is that he brings a fresh perspective and deep understanding of the industry’s evolving needs. It’s been refreshing for me, as I also find myself learning so much from him – his insights into the market are truly impressive.  

When having guests over for dinner, what’s on the menu?  

It’s usually a toss-up between Filipino and Negrense (from my family’s province, Negros) specialties from Grace Park, or a delightful Italian spread. One of my favourites is my blue crab and water spinach ravioli with calamansi cream and baby crab fat, paired with a simple yet perfect Cotoletta alla Milanese, prepared the way Amado’s Italian restaurant, a mano, does it. Of course, I must have a great crisp white wine and some super Tuscans like a Tignanello or Sassicaia to go with dinner.  

The city where you’ve had the best food memories…  

I would have to say Florence. That’s where my culinary journey truly began. It was the place where I purposely opened my eyes to learning and immersed myself in the experience. 

Is there a cuisine you’d love to learn more about?  

I’d love to dive deeper into the regional cuisines of Mindanao, in the southern part of the Philippines, as it has a distinct culinary heritage that is different from the rest of the country.

What is your comfort food?  

Baby crab fat with buttered rice and a pinch of sea salt.

The ingredient you can’t live without…  

Freshly ground black pepper. My love for it is made quite apparent by my collection of nearly 400 pepper mills. 

Follow Margarita at @margaritafores