Nicholas Pena Alvarez On Traditional Grenadian Cuisine

The small Caribbean Island of Grenada has been dubbed the Isle of Spice, thanks to its nutrient-rich volcanic soil and optimum climate. The result? It’s the ideal condition for producing the likes of nutmeg, cinnamon, and cloves for which it has become synonymous. Someone who knows all about the local produce and its cuisine is chef Nicholas Pena Alvarez of the luxury boutique Calabash Hotel (part of Relais & Chateaux). Home to a ‘farm-to-fork’ ethos – quite literally, as the hotel has its own organic-certified farm L’Esterre – it also offers authentic experiences, such as the ‘Eat like a Grenadian’ experience whereby guests can learn about and make authentic Grenadian dishes. Here chef Nicholas tells us more about the infamous Spice Isle and the hotel’s experiences that embrace and showcase the best of Grenadian cuisine and cookery.

Q&A with Chef Nicholas Pena Alvarez

Tell us about the cuisine of Grenada and its flavours…

Grenada is well known as the ‘Spice Isle’, and offers a vibrant and diverse culinary experience that reflects the island’s rich cultural heritage and abundant natural resources. Grenadian cuisine is evolving as chefs travel abroad to learn new cooking skills and adapt local ingredients and flavours to suit the needs of the tourism industry. There is a heavy emphasis on the use of locally and sustainably caught fish and seafood, which is excellent in quality. There are many ingredients from the land and local farmers that are also great like; plantain, callaloo, mango, avocado, nutmeg, breadfruit and chocolate to name a few. As the island’s name suggests, spices like nutmeg, cloves and turmeric also play a pivotal role in the cuisine.

What is the concept behind Rhodes?

Rhodes Restaurant is regarded as one of the best dining destinations in Grenada and the Caribbean. Our menu showcases local ingredients to provide our guests with an immersive culinary experience that reflects the vibrant flavours of Grenada – we want every bite to tell a story of the island’s culture and culinary traditions.

At Calabash, food and beverage is very much at core of what we do. We have built a reputation as one of the top hotels in the Caribbean, with high-level personal service, and to do that, we offer a wide range of menus and dishes that will appeal to the diversity of our guests. We are always happy to accommodate our guests with special menus that cater to allergies or personal dietary needs.

How do you go about menu planning and sourcing ingredients?

We plan our menu around several factors. What is it that our guests want and are looking forward to trying, a seasonal approach to offer the very best that Grenada has when it is available, and ensuring our menus are diverse enough to appeal to the various guests that visit us at Calabash throughout the year.

When it comes to sourcing ingredients, we have a farm-to-fork ethos. All of our menus are produce-led, driven by what’s readily available on the island, championing the flavour-rich bounty of Grenada’s rich volcanic soil.

The majority of our fruits, vegetables and spices are sourced from our family organic-certified farm, L’Esterre, at the north of the island. The farm practices regenerative techniques of agroforestry and intercropping which naturally builds nutritious soil, making for healthy and flavourful crops. We also have long-standing relationships with many local producers, suppliers and fishermen, all of whom we have handpicked for their high-quality and low-impact production methods.

Bobbie Garbutt at L’Esterre

What is a signature dish on the menu?

The Shrimp and Callaloo Tartlet has been on our menu for over 30 years, and embodies the rich culinary heritage and timeless appeal of our restaurant. This decadent dish combines the succulent flavours of fresh shrimp with the earthy, slightly nutty taste of callaloo, all encased in a delicate, buttery tart shell. It’s a perfect harmony of textures and flavours, making it a favourite, and a signature dish that stands the test of time. 

What foodie experiences are on offer for guests?

We are seeing that experiential travel is on the rise and guests want unique and special experiences. One of the most lovely Grenadian experiences is our ‘Eat like a Grenadian’ tour which is an immersive farm and cookery lesson in a Grenadian family home. The tour begins with a guided tour through the Homestead to learn about the nutritional and medicinal benefits of all the spices, herbs and vegetables grown there, before enjoying a true garden-to-table meal, with the opportunity to assist with preparing local dishes inspired by Grenada’s seasonal produce and cultural heritage. 

What is it about Grenadian cuisine that you love?

I am very fond of the expert use of spices, fruits, and ground provisions used in the cuisine. I find the food to be rich but not heavy or overpowering. As I mentioned, Grenada has access to some amazing products from the ocean and I love how fish and seafood are prepared here, letting the products shine through. Another favourite of mine is the Grenadian jerk, as it is more mild than other Caribbean islands. I find the jerk seasoning in Grenada to be very flavourful but not overly spicy, which again allows the products to be the star.

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Images courtesy of Calabash Hotel