5 Minutes With… Niklas Ekstedt
By
2 months ago
The Swedish chef on his unique style of live-fire cookingw
Here we meet one of Sweden’s most influential chefs, Niklas Ekstedt. Born in the small village of Järpen, Ekstedt grew up spending lots of time outdoors, and developed an interest in ancient cooking techniques. This inspired his culinary style, which eschews electricity, instead using only a fire pit, wood oven and wood stove. He went on to open a number of restaurants across Sweden, including the eponymous Ekstedt in 2011, which quickly rose to critical acclaim, gaining a Michelin star two years later.
In 2021, Ekstedt opened his first London venture, Ekstedt at The Yard in Westminster’s Great Scotland Yard Hotel. The restaurant combines Scandinavian techniques with the best seasonal British ingredients, with a focus on his signature open-fire cooking over wood using four key components: heat, soot, ash and smoke.
Interview: Niklas Ekstedt
Apparently the name Ekstedt means ‘family from the place of the oak trees’. Does your name help define who you are?
Absolutely. The connection to oak trees feels symbolic of my cooking philosophy – rooted, strong, and deeply connected to nature. It’s a reminder of where I come from and the traditions that inspire my work.
How did your childhood home inspire your unique, analogue cooking?
Growing up in Jämtland I was surrounded by the forests, lakes, and a strong sense of tradition, which has deeply influenced my approach to cooking. It taught me to respect nature’s cycles and the importance of using what’s available seasonally, which is central to my cooking ethos.
Why is the history of 18th-century Scandinavian cooking so important to where you are now?
The history of 18th-century Scandinavian cooking is vital to my work because it represents a time when cooking was pure, entirely dependent on the seasons. Returning to these roots allows me to create dishes that are unique, but I always try to add modern twists so that they don’t feel like anything from a museum. It’s a balanced blend of traditional techniques with modern influences.
What do you hope your guests feel when they eat your dishes?
I hope my guests feel a deep connection to nature and the seasons, which have a huge influence on my menus. I want them to experience the simplicity and purity of the ingredients, but also the complexity of flavours that reflect the rugged beauty of the Nordic landscape.
The smoke bonds the land and sea together in a culinary explosion of raw and honest flavour. Could this relationship mirror the collaboration between the food and the volcanic wines at the restaurant?
Absolutely. The interplay between smoke and the volcanic wines is a perfect metaphor for the balance – earthy flavors paired with something that has depth and a story of its own.
Is the balance of experience and theatre at Ekstedt as valuable as the food?
Yes, the experience and theatre are integral to what we do. Cooking over an open fire isn’t just about the end result; it’s about the process.
Who or what inspires you?
History is my greatest inspiration, together with the changing seasons, and the way a landscape transforms throughout the year – and how we used to survive and cook back before electricity. I love reading about history and how people lived in the past, while still creating culinary delights.
What’s next for you?
I’m excited to continue exploring the intersection of tradition and innovation in my cooking, and I’m particularly interested in how we can use ancient techniques to create something new and relevant for today’s diners. There’s always more to learn, and I’m eager to see where that journey takes me next.