Soho’s Slice Of Italian Glam: Daroco – Review

6 months ago

A sensational meal awaits

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In the mood for Italian food? Head to Daroco, says Martha Davies.

Restaurant Review: Daroco, Soho

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, but even the most Instagrammable restaurant needs to be worth the bill at the end of the night – and swoon-worthy interiors don’t always equate to swoon-worthy food. Step inside Daroco and you might be bowled over by the decor, but there’s nothing to fear here: the food is just as stunning.

This Soho spot really does look the part, with mirrored ceilings, crushed velvet seating and huge brass arches reaching over the tables. (The pizza oven is even adorned with blue ceramic butterflies). It’s the perfect place for a date night, glam lunch or a weekend brunch with friends – especially when there’s a DJ on the decks. The latest chapter in the Daroco Group’s culinary story – with two restaurants and a cocktail bar already open in Paris – the London outpost blends French flair with signature Italian hospitality.

The food, of course, is the main event, and there’s plenty to choose from. The menu is split, Italian-style, into starters and antipasti followed by pizza, pasta and secondi (mains including hake, breaded veal and aubergine parmigiana). Italian classics abound – expect focaccia, arancini, Parma ham and burrata – but don’t miss out on the raw Marango beef (served alongside crunchy Sardinian flatbread) and the roasted scallops (finished with white wine sauce, sundried tomato butter and nduja crumble).

When it comes to pasta, the crab ravioli is particularly divine, but you can also enjoy the likes of slow-cooked rabbit ragu and spaghetti with red prawn bisque. The pizzas, meanwhile, are reliably delicious: toppings include Fior di Latte mozzarella, confit onions and yellowfin tuna; asparagus cream, wild garlic and burrata; and courgette cream, marinated salmon and lemon-infused ricotta. (Though if you want to play it safe, you can opt for the Margherita or the Napoli).

The drinks list is, unsurprisingly, extensive; whether you’re in the mood for a vibrant cocktail, an Aperol Spritz or a bottle of Italian wine, you’ll find it all here – or in the Wacky Wombat, an underground treasure trove hidden beneath the restaurant. Don’t leave without heading there for an after-dinner tipple (but make sure to sample dessert first: the tiramisu is non-negotiable).