July Is London’s Must Try Restaurant This Summer

5 months ago

Charlotte Street just got one restaurant better

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From food writer Solynka Dumas and her partner Julian Oschmann comes a new London restaurant inspired by the joy of convivial eating. A small spot on Fitzrovia’s buzzy Charlotte Street serving up seasonal, ingredient-led dishes, Olivia Emily stops by July.

Restaurant Review: July, Fitzrovia

Where better to eat right now than July? Charlotte Street’s latest spot has tables and chairs spilling across the pavement into the road. It feels positively European – except with our own British interpretation of the continent’s heatwave.

Snag a spot in the sun to watch the world go by and order from the weekly changing menu. It’s all Alsatian-inspired (not the dog): a hearty splice of the cuisines found in Alsace, the cultural region of northeastern France bordering Germany and Switzerland. What does that translate into? Terrines, tarts, dumplings, soups, stews, schnitzels, sausages, poached fish and plenty more, all packed with flavour using the freshest ingredients cooked to their best and listed on a concise menu. Indeed, July has a weekly changing menu, carefully curated by chef Holly Hayes. The puds are similarly simple and seasonal: think fruits, cream, chocolate mousse and sorbets.

The wines are low intervention, featuring rarities from small European producers created in partnership with sommelier Honey Spencer. They’re best enjoyed reflecting on the eclectic interiors, at once minimalist yet lifted with an array of vibrant artworks (including a large mural at the rear), pops of teal, yellow and red, a vintage lamp collection and a warm wooden floor. It all sounds very familiar, but this is no Hackney joint. ‘We don’t do small plates,’ the waitress tells us. ‘But feel free to share.’ Even with this wine list, July is a refreshing respite in an industry obsessed with tapas-style eating and natural wine. It feels authentically Alsatian, and authentically seasonal – plates small because they’re starters, dishes listed ingredient by ingredient because they really are as simple as they look.

And it’s with that simplicity that July shines. Dishes are small yet filling and hearty. The wine list, filling both sides of an A4 sheet, is comprehensive yet concise. The cocktail selection is small and classic yet also creative (at present, it includes a Nectarine Spritz, Yuzu Sidecar, Melon Negroni and Walnut Old Fashioned). And the space is delightfully pared back, making the most of the sun spilling through the many-windowed facade, balanced with a moodier subterranean space for a nightcap.

Best of all, it may share its name with this month, but July is a year-round, all-day joint – so there’s plenty of time to stop by, linger, and come back again later.