Is This Surrey’s Best New Restaurant?

With two TV appearances and more than a decade of work with Tom Kerridge under his belt, Nick Beardshaw has opened a debut restaurant in Esher. Martha Davies reviews Starling.

Restaurant Review: Starling, Esher

(c) Cristian Barnett

Scrape back a chair at many a restaurant in the capital and, whether you like it or not, you’re in for dinner and a show — and not the kind of show that’s worthy of much applause when the curtain comes down. You know it well: microscopic starters balanced on a repurposed plank of wood; dry ice swallowing up a single, lonely main course; and a pudding encased in some kind of balloon popped by a smug waiter at your table. This is, of course, easily recognised as all style and no substance, and it might be something you’d expect from Nick Beardshaw, a chef who appeared on the BBC’s Great British Menu twice (and spent 14 years working with Tom Kerridge). Yet at Starling, Nick’s debut restaurant in Esher, he matches every bit of fanfare with truly spectacular flavours.

(c) Cristian Barnett

Whether you perch at the counter or settle into one of Starling’s elegant cobalt banquettes, you’ll soon be happily distracted by the menu. There’s an extensive drinks selection, and the food offering changes seasonally, combining classic flavours with contemporary techniques and a healthy dose of genius – just take a look at the selection of snacks, which includes a steak tartare hash brown, truffle parmesan crumpets, and even a honey glazed chicken nugget. It’s the kind of food that feels at once delightfully clever and utterly simple.

(c) Cristian Barnett

This notion also underpins the starters, which range from herb crumbed cod cheeks to marinated beetroot with goat’s curd. If you are, however, craving some theatrics, there’s the standout ‘Moon Shaped Pool,’ a winning creation from Great British Menu 2023. Taking its name (and visual inspiration) from Radiohead’s ninth album, the dish gathers hand-dived scallops, yuzu-marinated cucumber and beads of scallop roe mayonnaise, all served beneath a gleaming sheet of edible gelatine that melts away as a Thai-style velouté is poured on top. Who says fine dining can’t be rock and roll? 

(c) Cristian Barnett

Such magic might sound very much like the main event, but it’s really just the beginning; after all, it’s only the precursor to main courses like brill served with seaweed butter and a chicken wing reduction; duck with cherry ketchup and tardivo (Italian radicchio); and mushroom risotto topped with onion, parmesan and a fried egg. (You can also opt for a number of different steak dishes, all served with tomato hollandaise, as well as stellar sides including garlic roasted hispi cabbage and the crispiest, most superb triple-cooked chips).

(c) Cristian Barnett

Then, of course, it’s time for dessert, and another opportunity for a bit of culinary ostentation. While you might like the sound of the Madagascan vanilla creme brulee (a solid choice) or the Mayan Red chocolate ice cream with olive oil and a honey madeleine (fantastic), the winner is always going to be ‘Balloon Girl’, another Great British Menu dish.

Surpassing even the scallops, this is certainly Starling’s most Instagrammable offering, and it is in fact so visually impressive that you might wonder how exactly it’s going to taste any good at all. A gastronomic replica of Banksy’s famous mural, it’s complete with a chocolate and raspberry torte (the girl) and a rose and raspberry cheesecake (the balloon) encased in a red mirror glaze. Even the balloon’s rope is edible, as is the rice paper ‘canvas’ it sits on, which is dotted with popping candy – and the entire spectacle sits in its own (wooden, non-edible) picture frame. It’s sure to provide a particularly dramatic end to your meal, but there’s no need to worry; it tastes as incredible as it looks. Starling, it seems, is a restaurant more than worthy of applause.

BOOK IT

3 High St, Esher KT10 9RL. starlingbistro.co.uk