Inside Beaverbrook’s Fine Dining Japanese Restaurant
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2 months ago
This country house hotel is a haven for foodies
Set amid 400 acres of rolling countryside in the Surrey Hills, Beaverbrook is up there with some of the UK’s finest hotels. It was once home to media baron Lord Beaverbrook, who was known to throw lavish parties for the higher echelons of society – Winston Churchill was a friend, as was Elizabeth Taylor. In 2017 the estate was lovingly transformed into a hotel, complete with beautiful interiors from Soho House designer Susie Atkinson. But one of the most impressive parts is its culinary offering.
Numerous restaurants are dotted across the grounds: there’s classic British fare at Mrs Beeton’s, stone-baked pizza at the deli, and an outdoor chef’s table experience nestled within the gardens. But if you’re craving a spot of sushi, head to The Dining Room, Beaverbrook’s Japanese-inspired eatery located within The House.
Review: The Dining Room at Beaverbrook
On a rainy day, it was a delight to take refuge in Beaverbrook’s Dining Room, where Atkinson has nailed the balance between elegant and cosy. She has achieved the perfect dreamy country house aesthetic by pairing the room’s ornate white and gold ceiling with plush green armchairs, chintzy furnishings and soft florals. Large windows overlook the picture-perfect grounds, and the restaurant opens onto a terrace, allowing natural light to flood in.
The kitchen is headed up by chef Wojciech Popow, who honed his craft working for Copenhagen juggernaut Noma, plus a stint with Gordon Ramsay, before becoming deputy chef at London restaurant Yashin. Now he brings his culinary finesse to Beaverbrook’s signature restaurant, serving a menu of sushi, sashimi, and nigiri alongside grilled fish and meat from the Josper grill.
Making the most of locally-sourced produce is central to Beaverbrook’s ethos, and The Dining Room is no exception – despite being a Japanese restaurant. Popow and his team use ingredients grown in the hotel’s kitchen garden, giving them a new spin with Asian flavours and cooking techniques.
Before we got stuck into the food, though, my dining companion and I spent a while poring over the large cocktail menu, which includes a whole page dedicated to martinis. We ended up kicking things off with one of the hotel’s all-time classics, the Spitfire Collins, a blend of Ketel One vodka, peach liqueur, ginger syrup and fresh lemon juice.
There’s also a lengthy wine list featuring an array of sakes alongside white, rose and red wine, plus plenty of options for champagne available by the glass or the bottle. Tasting menus come paired with wines, but sommeliers can happily recommend varieties to go with a la carte dishes too.
The food menu too is (you guessed it) extensive, but friendly waiters are there to help recommend dishes – or you can leave it in the hands of the chefs by opting for one of the tasting menus. We stuck with à la carte, beginning with a few nibbles: spicy edamame beans, yellowtail carpaccio with smoked aubergine and beef tenderloin tataki – plus an impressively presented plate of perfectly golden, crispy vegetable tempura, served with a moreish dashi dipping sauce. It sets the tone for the meal to come: exquisite dishes packed with flavour and presented with flair.
The artfully arranged spicy tuna rolls were some of the best we’ve ever tried, the Hokkaido scallops were deliciously juicy, and the oak-smoked duck sits amid a bed of a unique coffee and cognac miso dressing. Also a highlight was the melt-in-your-mouth black cod, cooked in a rich miso and lime dressing and served dramatically, nestled within a large leaf.
After all this, we were full to the brim – but a plate of mochi was the perfect sweet note to end on (the pistachio flavour was particularly tasty).
Luxury ingredients are peppered throughout the menu – there’s lobster, wagyu, and the option to add San Pietro black truffles or Oscietra caviar to any dish. But unsurprisingly all this decadence doesn’t come cheap: one of the specials, for instance, is a kobe beef showstopper which will set you back a casual £135. But if you’re celebrating a special occasion, this spot will not disappoint.
THE FINAL WORD
Whether you’re a lucky overnight guest at Beaverbrook, or simply fancy a countryside lunch close to London, a trip to The Dining Room at Beaverbrook feels like a real treat. Like the rest of this five-star hotel, service is exceptional – slick yet friendly – and while the restaurant is undoubtedly upscale, it has a relaxed, buzzy atmosphere that calls out for long, leisurely, wine-fuelled lunches. No doubt Lord Beaverbrook would have approved.
