The Turkey Is Dead – Here’s What To Do Instead This Christmas

The Victorians invented the Christmas dinner as we know it. Traditionalists will tell you that the goose is the OG of festive meats, but for the past two centuries (or so), the turkey has been the one to get the chop (thanks to increasing family sizes; geese weren’t big enough). But are times a-changing again? The turkey is over – here’s what chefs recommend for an alternative Christmas dinner.

What To Do Instead Of A Christmas Turkey This Year, According To Chefs

According to YouGov data, just half the population want the big bird on the table, while eight percent are going all out vegetarian. Even our chefs aren’t fussed about the roast bird. Roberta Hall McCarron, of the Little Chartroom in Edinburgh, has swapped hers for a heartier beef Wellington. ‘It’s a classic,’ she explains, ‘and it was such a hit when I made it last Christmas that we’re absolutely having it again this year.’

So, what do other chefs say?

Switch To A Veg Centrepiece

Serving vegetarians this year, or just want a break from the ungainly turkey? Try a veg centrepiece, says Bob Andrew, chef at Riverford. ‘Nut roasts are fine but can be a bit heavy and gruelling,’ says Bob, ‘so we’d recommend a veggie wellington with plenty of dark lentils and deeply savoury mushrooms. You can make it in advance and bake it on the day while still leaving plenty of space in the oven for your roasties, carrots, parsnips and sprouts. Enjoy it as part of a veggie feast or flank it with the traditional sides of pigs in blankets and stuffing, the choice is yours. Now all you have to worry about is the gravy….!’

Beef Wellington

Boris Campanella, executive chef at Hotel de Crillon, agrees with Roberta: ‘For a meat course, I would suggest a beef Wellington fillet. Dress it up with black truffle and foie gras, Périgueux sauce.’

Gammon Ham

‘I’m tired of the classic turkey,’ says Karl O’Dell, exec chef at CORD restaurant. ‘I enjoy offering something with a bit more depth and flavour. My recommendation for an alternative Christmas dinner? A slow-roasted gammon ham, studded with cloves and glazed with honey and pink peppercorns. It’s roasted over caramelized onions, rosemary, thyme, and cinnamon sticks, adding a festive aroma to the kitchen. To finish, I add a touch of brandy and flambé it at the table. This brings out warm, rich flavors and creates an inviting, cozy feel.’

Game Meats Like Venison

‘A fantastic alternative to turkey is venison,’ says Luke French, co-owner and chef at JÖRO. ‘Ask your local butcher to get you a saddle of venison, then marinate it in olive oil, garlic, rosemary, juniper berries and thyme for as long as you can (ideally a minimum of 24 hours). Roast it at 100C until the core temp reaches 46c – the time this takes depends on the size of the saddle and your oven of course, but this should take around 1-2 hours. Then remove from the oven. Increase the oven temperature to its hottest setting and pop the venison back in for 10 mins to go lovely and brown and golden. Serve with cranberry and bread sauces, sticky braised red cabbage and sprouts – just the same as you would turkey. Absolutely delicious.’

Look Local

What’s nearby? That’s the trick to a more sustainable alternative Christmas dinner, says Clare Coghill, chef-owner of Café Cùil on the Isle of Skye. ‘I always try to keep things as local and sustainable as possible at Christmas,’ she says, ‘Instead of a traditional turkey – which I often find can be a bit boring on the palate – I tend to opt for something a bit more locally available to me (and creel caught!) here on Skye. Fresh langoustines or lobster are always the star of the show at Christmas time, served alongside roast potatoes and garlic butter and accompanied by a sprout slaw. I find this makes for a much more interesting Christmas dinner, while supporting your local fishermen too.’

Pork Belly

Alan Keery, co-owner and head chef at Restaurant Nàdair, Edinburgh, suggests pork belly. ‘We do a one-tray wonder using a fat-plentiful pork belly, as it’s so much more forgiving to roast than turkey,’ he says, ‘We season the meat with plenty of sea salt and some Chinese five spice, place chopped carrots, parsnips and onions on the bottom of a roasting tray with garlic and rosemary, and then place the pork belly on top of the veg. Slow roast at around 160 degrees and marvel as the fat and juices from the pork drip onto the veg, giving you a lovely base for the sauce. Serve with hasselback potatoes – again so much more forgiving than roast potatoes! Simple, delicious, and stress-free.’

Think More Globally

Ilknur Celik, Head Chef at Kaso, One Hundred Shoreditch, suggests a more continental dinner – where the goose still reigns supreme. ‘For a Mediterranean twist, consider a slow-roasted goose for the ultimate Turkey-style centrepiece,’ says Ilknur. ‘I’d also recommend incorporating sides like roasted vegetables drizzled with tahini or a warm fennel and citrus salad as they can bring vibrant, fresh flavours that capture the celebratory spirit without relying on the usual roast, which over the Christmas season, can get very repetitive.’