Here’s Why This Soho Restaurant Is A Neighbourhood Favourite

By Martha Davies

3 months ago

Expect a pared-back menu (and a lengthy wine list)

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Small plates in Soho? Oh, go on then. Martha Davies visits 10 Greek Street.

Review: 10 Greek Street, Soho

Laura Jalbert

Slap some sharing plates and a bottle of organic wine on a menu and every eatery in the capital could call itself a neighbourhood restaurant. 10 Greek Street, however, is worthy of the title: having opened in 2012, it’s a real Soho stalwart, boasting a no-fuss ethos and a focus on seasonal dishes.

It doesn’t take long to get a feel for the place: simple leather banquettes, menus scrawled on blackboards and cutlery hiding in metal tins built into the tabletops. You can eat at the counter, or outside in balmy weather – both are helpful as it’s bound to be packed by the end of the evening.

Restaurant dining room with wooden table and navy walls

Laura Jalbert

While everything might look rather simple, no frills doesn’t mean no fun; the drinks list is extensive, with an emphasis on lesser-known, low markup wines. (Ask for the ‘little black book’, a handwritten list of rare wine recommendations). The food offering is split into bar snacks, small plates, sides and desserts.

The menu changes daily, but current highlights include garlic and chilli flatbread alongside Dexter beef with fried potatoes, Hispi cabbage and horseradish. The watermelon and heirloom tomato dish (topped with feta, olive, mint & pistachio) is particularly refreshing on a summer’s day, and the plaice (scattered with tomatoes, olives, capers and sea vegetables) is just as superb.

Laura Jalbert

If you’re craving something a little more hearty, you can opt for the buttermilk fried cod’s cheeks or the chorizo on toast. When it comes to dessert, meanwhile, don’t miss out on the baked frangipane, or the chocolate cremeux with blueberries and hazelnuts. You’ll also spot plenty of lovely fruit (think fresh sorbet and lemon posset).

While sharing plates aren’t for everyone, the concept really works at 10 Greek Street: seasonal produce really does shine, and every dish is nourishing and impressive in its simplicity. Plus, you won’t need to order everything on the menu to feel like you’ve had a satisfying meal – but with so much to choose from, you could be tempted to do so regardless.

THE FINAL WORD

New restaurants may be flinging their doors open in the capital every week, but is it criminal to want something that isn’t shiny and new? Unpretentious and gloriously dependable, 10 Greek Street is a staple for a reason.