Inside The Transformed Carlton Cannes

When a resort starts being known for glamour or style, you can safely bet it’s because of a luxury hotel opening. Examples abound, but one that stands out is Cannes and the Carlton. Cannes was already a smart place to spend the winter when the Belle Epoque hotel was opened by Henri Ruhl in 1911, but it was the existence of the Carlton (which was so successful it took over the adjoining Hotel de la Plage in 1913) along with the openings of the Majestic and the Martinez in the 1920s which cemented the reputation of the city as one of the world’s chicest.

By World War II, Cannes had also become a summer destination, and the glitter factor only went up after the first Cannes Film Festival – held every May since – in 1946. The Carlton was in a perfect location, half way down the Croisette, a short walk from the original Palais des Festivals and a key meeting point as well as the place for stars to stay. The Palais moved to near the port in 1982 and these days Cannes hosts many other festivals and events throughout the year – but the hotel remains central to all of them.

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Hotel Review: Carlton Cannes, A Regent Hotel

STAY

Almost the definition of a landmark hotel, the Carlton – with its white wedding cake look and twin domes – instantly says ‘Cannes’. Iconic is an overused word, but the Carlton deserves it, a status recognised in many movies including, almost as a co-star, in Alfred Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief (1955) starring Cary Grant and Grace Kelly  – with new suites named after all three.

From the outside, the hotel still looks much the same as it did then, but the interior has been changed many times over the years. A huge refurb 35 years ago, for instance, ended with a casino, nightclub and gastronomic restaurant on the top floor – all later replaced by signature suites. But the latest makeover is one of the biggest ever: taking over two years, after which the Carlton, now a Regent hotel, reopened in early 2023.

The changes, overseen by architect Richard Lavelle, start in the bigger, remodelled lobby  – where the reception and concierge desks have been moved – and continue in the other public areas, where many previously hidden original features have been revealed. Even hotel uniforms have had a makeover and reception staff now sport striped seersucker jackets.

Then there are the 332 rooms and suites (72 of which have a sea view), where interior designer Tristan Auer has had a pretty free hand for a complete refresh. Gone is the previous classic ‘period’ look, replaced with a more art deco style feel, with greys and white in abundance: bright, calm and soothing to stay in. There is a real attention to detail, right down to surfaces and textures throughout the hotel (the lifts have marble walls and mosaic floors, for instance). The bathrooms (most with showers only) have marble basins and Dyson hair dryers, and are equally bright. During the Film Festival, many of the rooms take on a different life as offices for film companies and spaces for receptions and press conferences.

But the most radical change is to the back of the hotel, where the only view used to be of the car park. No longer: the space has been transformed into a garden with an infinity pool, sunbathing deck and accompanying cabanas. Two new wings of apartments complete the change, one of them housing the magnificent new C Club spa and fitness complex with its state of the art gym and full size boxing ring.

One thing that hasn’t changed is the top class service; and the atmosphere, for such a grand dame of a hotel, is still pretty relaxed.

Premium City view with balcony

EAT

The Carlton’s transformation also stretches to its food and drink offerings. The famous terrace – a big draw for star-spotters during the film festival, when the hotel sports placards promoting the latest releases – is still one of Cannes’ main meeting places, now part of the Riviera brasserie, which also extends inside and is also where breakfast is served. Chef Laurent Bunel serves fresh modern seasonal Mediterranean-inspired dishes with several fish and vegetarian options come lunch and dinner, and you can opt to sit at the indoor Chef’s table by the open kitchen if the outdoors isn’t a draw.

Completely new is Rüya from chef Umut Özkanca, where you can enjoy Turkish specialities out on the terrace or inside, where the bar serving meze and drinks until 1.30am has become a hot place to meet.

Most people beeline for the Carlton’s legendary Beach Club across the road for lunch (also open for dinner and drinks), whether lounging on the beach or the famous pontoon, or sitting at tables on the deck of the restaurant. It’s almost essential when you’re in Cannes. You can choose from a selection of light dishes, salads and pasta or something more substantial.

Inside, Bar°58, with its Raku ceramic counter, is one of the most elegant places in town for a drink and, on Friday evenings, live jazz. You can also sit outside. Meanwhile, the equally stylish new Camélia lounge – on the site of the old bar – stretches along the front of the ground floor, and is the place for afternoon tea.

Riviera Restaurant

DO

The Carlton Cannes’ new pool has become a big attraction. And the nearby C Club spa is a place you might spend plenty of time, perhaps after getting a personalised assessment and fitness plan. You can not only choose from a huge range of relaxation and fitness options (some on the beach), but also for the latest beauty treatments including cryotherapy and light therapy – all in collaboration with innovative brands such as Dr Burgener, Dermalab and Dr Barbara Sturm.

For such a lively place, Cannes has surprisingly few formal attractions, but you can join the locals – particularly in the morning and at sunset – and promenade along the elegant Croisette. It takes around 15 minutes to walk from the Carlton to the Palais des Festivals and the old port. A wander down the narrow streets of the old town and up Le Suquet is always an attractive option, too, particularly for more authentic restaurants. You can also get great views from the 11th century watchtower in the old town, and visit the small museum inside with its eclectic collection of Mediterranean objects.

Then there’s the shopping. Most of the top luxury brands are arrayed along the Croisette, with high street brands and smaller shops – as well as some good bars and restaurants – in the streets behind. It’s also worth visiting the covered Forville food market to ogle some of the best Provençal produce. The Carlton Cannes’ itself has four boutiques, including Orlebar Brown, near the pool.

For a change of scenery, take the 20 minute ferry ride to the island of St Honorat, owned by Cistercian monks who also once owned the land Cannes stands on. You’ll find an abbey and a vineyard which produces some of the area’s best wine. The island’s restaurant by the sea, La Tonelle, is worth visiting, and very popular with yachtsmen and stars escaping the crowds during the Film Festival. A reservation means your ferry ticket is free.

The new swimming pool

THE FINAL WORD

The refurbishment of the Carlton Cannes has not only maintained the highest standards, but keeps it in the top league of Riviera hotels. With its heritage and great location, for many, it is the only place to stay in Cannes. The new pool and spa means that it now lacks nothing in comparison with its rivals on the Croisette.

BOOK IT

Double rooms with breakfast at the Carlton Cannes, a Regent Hotel, start from £630 per night. carltoncannes.com