Pura Vida In Costa Rica: The Best Places To Stay

Is there any wonder people have been increasingly jumping ship to Costa Rica? The landscape is always green and luscious, the food is fresh and delicious, it’s safe, and the people are truly happy to see you and live the philosophy of pura vida (pure life). The longer you stay, the more tempting the prospect gets…

For those with time only for holiday plans (for now), here is Alanna Ospina’s pick of the top places to stay in this Central American paradise.

C&TH Guide to Responsible Tourism

Where To Stay In Costa Rica

Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa

Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa, Tabacón

Waking up at Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa is to truly understand what it’s like having nature as your alarm clock: chatty cackles of the red-lored parrot, and high pitched flutterings of hummingbirds are set to a backdrop of the gushing waters from the thermal river and a hum of insects. Only three percent of this 900 sqm property has been developed, with the remaining land used for regenerating and protecting the biodiversity thanks to the trailblazing vision of Tabacón’s founder, Jaime Mikowski. Already an established architect, the native Costa Rica saw the opportunity that this land with its three river sources had to lure in visitors and make the surrounding La Fortuna into a destination for local and international visitors. He convinced the landowner (who saw the thermal waters as something of an inconvenience) not to turn Tabacón into grazing land for cattle and, 30 years later, Jaime’s pioneering vision is incarnate, and a masterclass in eco-conscious travel to boot. The hotel and resort is 100 percent solar powered with any surplus energy given to the local area, it has a 360° water management process using the thermal waters, it has its own private nursery for the cultivation of native plant species that it shares with the wider La Fortuna area, and is an active member of the community making sure the younger generations have access to the best education and career opportunities.

First came the thermal waters, which are now part of the wider resort, set up into an Avatar-like experience. Guests are encouraged to dip into each of the 18 pools – and you’ll probably get lost trying to find them through the luscious rainforest landscape. The temperature of the waters vary from 36–40°C, and are delicious for aching bodies after long hours of travel. While the waters are open to the public, Tabacón’s guests have exclusive access to Shangri-La, a jungle enclave with a private waterhole and a restaurant serving colourful Buddha Bowls and cocktails. There is also Ave Restaurant for more refined dining while enjoying the thermal waters, and a swim-up pool bar for drinks out of pineapples and ceviche tostados. Book the Honey Temptation treatment in the Spa for 80 minutes of pure bliss, soothing your skin with honey, wild orange and almonds in the outside spa palapa, leaving you totally immersed in nature.

Honeymoon Suite

Tabacón has 100 rooms scattered across the resort, each with a clean minimalist aesthetic combining grey marble and polished light wood. Choose one of the rainforest rooms for complete nature seclusion. Slip into comfortable beds and crisp sheets at night, closing the curtains to the deep grunts of toads, high pitched cicada trills and flashing lights of fireflies. Meals are at Las Tucanes, which serves up a creative mix of local Costa Rica and international flavours. Start the day with rice and beans and platters of fresh fruit and finish it with innovative dishes such as ‘fake’ risotto made with cauliflower and pork loin with roasted plums and apples.

Tabacón put La Fortuna on the map, and today stands as an immersive rainforest retreat with healing thermal waters that you will walk away from feeling revived and rejuvenated.

BOOK IT: Nightly rates in a Rainforest Room start from $508 including breakfast. tabacon.com

© Andres Garcia Lachner

Hotel Nantipa, Santa Teresa

With knowledge of the wisdom and ways of the world’s Blue Zones, many people have become more clued up on the real secrets of a longer, happier life. The Nicoya Peninsula on Costa Rica’s Pacific coast is one of these sacred spots where the philosophy is 100 percent pura vida (pure life). The pace is slower here, and the locals have a twinkle in their eye like they know what the secret is. According to one 110-year-old resident , it’s ‘arroz, frijoles y tranquilidad’: rice, beans and tranquillity. Not a bad life mantra.

Santa Teresa has become one of Costa Rica’s most desirable destinations. It has the feeling of Tulum when it was still just a sleepy beach town frequented by discerning insiders making their way around beautiful boutiques, restaurants and cafés in between catching the surf. A main strip runs through Santa Teresa, and in the middle is Nantipa, one of a handful of luxury hotels in the area. Nantipa means ‘blue’ in the ancient indigenous Chorotengan language. The 44 rooms and villas are bright and airy with indigenous artwork framed on the wall, paying reverence to the past while still keeping the vibe contemporary and fresh. Sheets are soft and beds are sanctuaries to squish into at the end of the day.

Beachfront Villa

Hanging tree pods can be found outside the Nunki rooms, to sit in and watch the red squirrels and birds make their way amongst the trees. Start days with a life-affirming yoga class in the shala followed by a swim in the pool framed by giant fauna: glorious tropical almond and coconut trees and towering palms with the sun dancing through their leaves on the water. Meals are at Manzú, the hotel’s beachfront restaurant where pura vida reigns amongst the local ingredients and delicious menu options, from bowls of ripe tropical fruit for breakfast to tantalisingly tasty ceviche for lunch and freshly caught mahi mahi or tuna for dinner.

A refreshing dip in the Pacific is only ever footsteps away. Nantipa works with the wider community to collectively care for the environment with initiatives including turning microplastics into construction blocks, supporting children’s education and keeping the beaches clean. Explore the wider area in one of the hotel’s open air Polaris’ to visit waterfalls and nearby villages. To see the context of the Blue Zone and the real people that live in it, the hotel has launched a new Blue Zone experience to have a day fully immersed in the life of a local Tico on their farm, eating rice and beans and living the tranquil life. It’s a lesson for us all, and you’ll be hard pressed not to walk away from here with the essence of Pura Vida under your skin.

BOOK IT: Nightly rates in a Nanku Suite start from $385 per night including breakfast. nantipa.com

Casas Capitan

Casas Capitan, Santa Teresa

Twenty-three years ago, Lottie Meadows was way ahead of the curve when she saw the majesty and beauty of Santa Teresa. When there was little more than a dirt road and a fishing hut, Lottie left Bali looking for somewhere she could turn into her sanctuary far away from the busyness of Europe, not finding it there. Finding the perfect spot with its own private beach, she has spent the last two decades creating Casas Capitan: first the main eight-bedroom casa, Casa Capitan, shaped like a boat making its way to the ocean, followed by two others, Casa Java and Dewa.

These were long before the days of swanky international architects, so appointing a local builder and his team, Casas Capitan is now one of the most magnificent private houses to rent in Santa Teresa with (if the rumours are true) celebrities such as Beyoncé and Jay-Z, Ben Affleck, Bruce Springsteen and Cara Delevingne choosing it to escape the world and hide from prying eyes. The house comes with 22 staff to look after its guests’ every need – massages on the beach for 15 people at the same time? No problem. Special menus every night with nothing but local food? It’s taken care of.

After a glamourous early life of modelling around the world, owner Lottie has created a design masterpiece with soul, filled with Balinese teak furniture and trésors from her travels. It is a far cry from the beautiful yet minimalist whitewashed villas that now prevail within this chichi corner of Costa Rica, and that is why its guests love it. In the 900 sqm of the property, there are horses which more experienced riders can take on the beach to ride, a yoga shala, numerous spots of wining and dining – but, more than anything, there is absolute peace and privacy to do whatever you like. No wonder the A-List keeps coming back.

BOOK IT: Rates at the Casa Capitan estate start from $4,000 per night. villaluxe.com

Arenas Del Mar, Manuel Antonio

Twist and turn along the hillside of the 11-acre Arenas Del Mar estate until you reach the heart of Arenas Del Mar. Here, 37 rooms are spread across five buildings in a small, developed area of the land; 75 percent of the land remains untouched. There has been a slow and careful restoration over the last 20 years for nature to flourish once again, and now a luscious rainforest hums vibrantly with the life of all who live in it.

Arenas De Mar is a place to disconnect with modern living and reconnect with the earth; the variety of birds and reptiles is astounding. Fall in love with the adorable sloths taking it easy in the canopy, watch out for opportunistic monkeys looking to steal sugar from your room, and spot raccoons chilling by the restaurant. With its own private beach looking out to the Pacific, enjoy complete tranquillity to commune with the crashing waves. Rooms are jungle-like in feeling, with light wooden furniture made from endemic wood, peaceful balconies with sweeping views and products made by Costa Rican natural beauty brand, Aromas, from rosemary, mint and avocado oil for a fresh and rejuvenating boost.

Playitas Pool

There are two restaurants: Mirador for refined dining and Playitas for a beachy, feet-in-the-sand vibe where there’s usually live music playing. The catch of the day is always a good choice, and the cocktail list is delicious. Arenas Del Mar is part of the Cayuga Collection, a group of properties that spreads across Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Panama, and has been spearheading sustainable travel across Central America for two decades, prioritising planet and people above everything else meaning that the guest experience feels truly authentic and purposeful. Let the local team show you the surrounding area, whether for a guided walk around the estate’s own jungle trail or to further afield at the nearby Manuel Antonio National Park, one of the country’s most spectacular spots. For fuss free beauty treatments in a tranquil setting, there is Brisas Wellness Centre. Arenas Del Mar is the luxury option in Manuel Antonio, one of Costa Rica’s most chilled out spots on the Pacific coast.

BOOK IT: Rates at Arenas Del Mar, a member of Beyond Green, start from $729 (approximately £575) for an Ocean Breeze Superior Room. staybeyondgreen.com

SCP Corcovado Wilderness Lodge (© SCP Hotels)

SCP Corcovado Wilderness Lodge, Bahia Drake

Only accessible by boat, stepping on to the black sand beach of SCP Corcovado Wilderness Lodge on the Osa Peninsula feels like going back to a bygone age of pristine rainforests and simpler days. Corcovado is a nature lover’s paradise – a rainforest private reserve where the world’s most curious creatures roam free and can be spotted from the sweeping views of the Ocean View bungalows’ balconies.

Treading across the raised walkways to the rooms immerses you completely in nature with the opportunity to come eye to eye with its beloved residents. There is the mythical looking tapir (part hippo/rhino/elephant/horse/cow), spider monkeys swinging in the trees, the long-nosed coatis scuttling around mischievously for their next snack, various frogs each with their own distinctive song and speciality, a cacophony of birds and if you’re lucky, you might spot the most elusive of them all, the majestic puma. A guided nature walk with nature guide Mario is a must: as a man of the forest, he understands its ways intricately and will leave you with a new sense of walking among the trees. Other tours include a snorkelling tour to neighbouring Caño Island and its thriving reef where sharks, rays, sea turtles, parrot fish, angel fish all pass by. SCP Corcovado works closely with marine organisation, Innoceana, to monitor the ocean and its inhabitants and maintain the best possible environment. A water analysis is taken as part of the tour and shared with the group afterwards, making you feel, in a small way, part of the important operations to keep this ecosystem as pure as possible.

Jungle Villa (© SCP Hotels)

Costa Rican soul food is served up by Chef Pablo and his team at the hotel’s two restaurants: the quirkily colonial designed Las Vitrales and the showstopping Terra Bar, which is perched on the side of the rock face and is a breathtaking spot to watch the full descent of sunset. Menus give four choices for lunch and dinner each day that combine Costa Rican flavours with fresh produce. Head to Inspiration Point for an open air spa treatment and full sensory experience.

The passionate team makes a stay here as unforgettable as the nature experiences. The existing property was taken over by sustainable California based hotel management group, Soul Community Planet (SCP) Hotels, last year after 20 years of private ownership; they are planning further positive impact initiatives, inspiring not only to guests but to the local community too, making sure that the luxury of travel is accessible to as many people as possible, most importantly to those who live most closely to it. The hotel is 100 percent operated by self-generated solar and hydro energy and has a fully circular composting and recycling waste process. We arrived by a boat via the Sierpe River which twists and turns like a serpent as its name suggests and spits you out on the Pacific Ocean to get you to Corcovado. On leaving, a peaceful 30-minute boat ride takes you to Drake Bay from where the local airport is a short ride away.

BOOK IT: Rates start at $1,004 pp for a three-night stay, including transportation from Sierpe or Drake Bay, all meals, a snorkelling excursion to Caño Island and a guided hike through Corcovado National Park. scphotel.com

Behold Retreats, Esterillos & Monteverde

Bogged down and weary by the constant onslaught of news and the pace of modern living, many people are looking for more from their lives. For some, that may be healing, while for others it may be expanding their own consciousness to the wider possibilities. Behold Retreats is a pioneering retreat facilitator that is offering answers for both with plant medicine retreats in the land of Costa Rica’s cloud forests of Monteverde, and Esterillos, a quiet coastal town on the Pacific Coast. As scientific evidence is supporting the benefits of psychedelic plant medicine for ailments from depression and PTSD to anxiety and addiction recovery, it is also supporting people to live their lives with a greater sense of overall acceptance and wellbeing. Behold Retreats Costa Rican centres offer beautiful minimalist rooms steeped in nature with communal dining areas, a yoga shala and delicious plant-centric cuisine throughout the retreat. As the popularity in plant medicine has grown, Behold Retreats are leading the way in ensuring safety and knowledge before and after the retreat is paramount for the best experience, with all guests undertaking a rigorous vetting process to make sure the retreat is right for them choosing from the three plant medicine retreats that Behold offer: Ayahuasca, Psilocybin and 5-MeO-DMT (also known as Bufo). Be guided and supported by Behold’s expert team for what might be the most transformational trip of your life.

BOOK IT: A five-night retreat all-inclusive Ayahuasca eco-retreat in Monteverde starts from $5,700. behold-retreats.com

Alanna was on a personal trip to Costa Rica when this article was researched.