A Hiking Trip To Saalfelden Leogang, Austria

Nicola Venning switches off from London life with a hiking holiday in Saalfelden Leogang, a part of Austria renowned for its walking trails and beautiful mountain views.

Review: Autumn Hiking In Saalfelden Leogang, Salzburgerland

‘Gruss Gott!’ A fellow walker greeted us as we stepped out of the cable car into a landscape of snow-capped mountain peaks and bright sunshine. Just below us was a fine blanket of cloud, hiding the green valley and Saalfelden Leogang, the long village that ends at the foot of Austria’s impressive Asitz mountain. 

The region, all lush pastures, wooden chalets and rugged mountains, is part of Salzburgerland – a mountain and valley playground, as popular for its winter skiing as it is for its summer and autumn mountain biking and hiking. 

Keen to escape the city and the day to day grind, my husband and I jumped at the chance to hike in the mountains for a couple of days. The resort, which is only an hour and a half’s drive from Salzburg and about two hours from Munich, helpfully has the free Saalfelden Leogang guest card which allows complimentary museum visits as well as two free return trips on the cable-car each day of any visit.

All around us, walkers were crunching over the light covering of snow, and starting their hikes. Saalfelden Leogang is renowned for its extensive network of connected paths and Asitz has quite a few, as well as the very popular Epic Bike Park, a UCI Bike Region and one of the largest in Austria. The walkers however, were heading for the popular Leos Spielewanderweig, a two hour hike promising spectacular views around the summit. 

But we were going to tackle a new route, Waldbaden am Asitz, a 8.2 km /3.5 hour trundle down the mountain, with regular stops, designed to encourage relaxation and the appreciation of nature. The walk was replicating the Japanese practice of Shinrin-yoku, which literally translated means ‘forest bathing’, a form of immersion in the natural world to improve well-being. After some heavy work days and a cramped flight, a bit of ‘forest bathing’ sounded perfect.

Marching with our wooden staffs, which the tourist centre helpfully leaves at the start of popular walks and at most hotels (to be returned at the end), we took the well-signposted path. The snowy ground was soon left behind for a gravelly path but nonetheless I zipped up my jacket. Even though it’d been warm in the valley, I was now at over 1700m and the October air was nippy. 

The track was easy to follow and gradually the rugged upper slopes gave way to alpine pasture, where goats and sheep grazed. We strolled through pine-scented forests, negotiated a small stream and one carefully-bridged bog before emerging to stunning views. The cloud had faded away and the Leoganger Steinberge mountains were carved out against a vivid blue sky, in the distance. 

The next Shinrin-yoku rest point, one of 14, was a simple bench overlooking the valley. Others had been a swing or a log against a tree and even a rope bed which was surprisingly comfy! Lying on my back was also a wonderful way to admire the treetops (although my husband almost fell asleep…). Each station also had a small information board about the local fauna. Now I know that the cones from stone pine are used to make schnapps – as are rowanberries.

As we sat on a tree stump, munching our sandwiches, I realised I hadn’t thought of my busy life back in London at all. Whether that was to do with the beautiful scenery or the concentration needed to make sure I remained upright, I wasn’t entirely sure. But either way, I did feel a lot more relaxed. 

We crossed another alpine meadow, passing some little brown huts once used for storing hay. By now it was warmer and quite sunny and as we followed a stream to the lower pastures, various mushrooms could be spotted in the undergrowth.  Leogang emerged and soon we could hear the clunk of cowbells. The animals gazed at us curiously as we crossed the bike path to reach Hotel Puradies Mein Naturresort, where we were staying. 

Triumphant, happy and a little relieved (no trips or twists!), we enjoyed reviving tea and cake on the terrace in the sunshine. It had been hugely enjoyable – both physically and mentally – though my knees and legs did ache a little. It was time for the spa.

Hotel Puradies

Like many of the hotels in the area, four-star superior Hotel Puradies was originally a farmhouse and has been in the same family for over four generations. Over the years, it has been expanded and now includes chalets, a new wing of bedroom suites (with wonderful mountain views) and, most recently, a brand new luxurious spa. Yoga classes and a gym were available but we jumped into the family friendly, bath-warm outdoor heated pool. Then, following the Austrian example and wearing just a towel, we tried some of the four (dry, two herbal, and a steam) saunas.

The warm wood soothed my aching limbs and when I became too hot, I slipped out for a cold shower or the natural bio small outdoor pond which had small decks to help us ease in – and then out again, rather quickly.  It was much colder than the shower! Finally wrapped in a fluffy robe, over herbal tea, I flopped in the sauna rest-area with its floor to ceiling windows and watched the mountains turn from grey to purple as the sun went down. Bliss.

We finished the day with a glorious meal. The hotel’s menu was a clever mix of traditional and modern European so while my husband had local beef, I opted for lighter monkfish though I was tempted by the (locally sourced) beetroot and mushroom risotto. It was all so good, I even wolfed the chocolate desert – damn the calories! After all, I’d just descended a mountain – in one piece. That night, I was asleep before my head touched the pillow. Which was just as well.  The next day we had another 3.5 hour walk. This time we were going to Birnbachloch which entailed walking up a picturesque valley and mountain side, to the source of the Birnbach river. I couldn’t wait.

BOOK IT:

Doubles at Puradies from E€350.00 per night (based on 2 sharing half board), puradies.com; SalzburgerLand, salzburgerland.com; Saalfelden Leogang Tourist office, saalfelden-leogang.com

Carbon footprint: 809 miles (flight to Salzburg and car journey from Salzburg to Leogang).