The West Hollywood Weekender

From the Design District to the buzzy Sunset Strip, West Hollywood is the cultural heart of LA. But with so much to see and do, what can you cram into a weekend visit? Rebecca Cox picks her highlights…

48 Hours In West Hollywood

It’s oppressively hot outside, but in Vicky’s crystal-lined office there is a fan running and the tinkling music of a wind charm hints at a breeze. ‘The angels guided you here,’ she tells us, as we pull out our credit card to hand over $80 for a psychic and tarot reading. This is West Hollywood, and whatever you’re looking for, even divine intervention, you’ll find it. (As long as you can pay the asking price.) There is no need to consult with a Melrose Avenue psychic to figure out how to spend an enjoyable weekend in LA’s coolest district, however. This is the perfect town to choose your own adventure.

STAY

Choice one: where to stay. There are 23 hotels in West Hollywood, many of which are steeped in history. Music fans will want to walk in the footsteps of music icons of the past and check in to the handful of rock and roll stalwarts including the legendary Sunset Marquis, which played host to Bob Marley and The Wailers during their shows at The Roxy, or the Andaz West Hollywood, formerly known as the Riot House in the 70s, and where the party spirit is still strong. If discretion is paramount, Chateau Marmont, on the edge of the West Hollywood boundary is renowned for being one of the most exclusive retreats for Hollywood’s elite.

There’s no riot or pretention at Kimpton La Peer Hotel, however, only a sleek, Hoxton-esque aesthetic by LA-based Icelandic designer Gulla Jónsdóttir and the cool, creative crowd lounging by the sunny pool or playing pickleball on the roof to a live DJ. Just minutes from the heart of West Hollywood’s Design District, La Peer is the place to lay your head to rest if you’re in town to immerse yourself in the local art, architecture and fashion. lapeerhotel.com

Atelier, Martyn Lawrence Bullard (c) Rebecca Cox

DO    

Now we’ve found a resting spot, we come to choice two: what to do. With some of America’s most iconic entertainment venues, world-class retailers and a fabulous LGBTQ+ scene, cramming everything into one weekend is impossible. You can pick a focus (design, nightlife, fashion or food) and delve deep, or take a pick n mix approach with one or two elements of each. You can sleep on the flight home, after all. Here are a few options for your itinerary. 

SHOP: Design District 

As a Country & Town House-r in LA, the design district is the obvious place to start. West Hollywood is home to interior designers like Kishani Perera and Madeline Stuart and notable venues include the Pacific Design Center, featuring over 100 showrooms, and designLAb, which has rotating exhibitions worth checking out. It’s also home to Brit abroad and super-starry designer Martyn Lawrence Bullard, known for his eclectic style and high-profile clientele which includes the likes of Elton John and Cher. His shop is well worth a visit, every piece is hand-picked by Martyn and the result is a coming together of English and LA aesthetics and a visual feast of bold monochrome prints and fuschia velvet upholstery. Aside from interiors, fans of design should check out The Leica Gallery Los Angeles for its free photography exhibitions or take a walk down Melrose Avenue for the who’s who of the fashion world including Brits Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood. The RealReal is also worth a visit, a physical space for the cult online luxury resale site, where you can browse rare second-hand finds from all the big brands from Gucci to Chanel, or The Grove is one of LA’s most famous shopping destinations and a popular hang-out for locals. 

Paul Smith LA’s iconic pink wall makes the perfect backdrop (c) Rebecca Cox

MOVE: Hiking

All that shopping could count as cardio, but people take fitness seriously here. West Hollywood is the original home of Barry’s Bootcamp, and the wellness set can be found toting $15 green juices (be prepared for $10 coffees and $30 cocktails, too) and flocking to the latest fitness craze, crossing over in the early morning with the tail end of the party crowd. You could seek out something ultra-LA (clown cardio is happening, I hear), but since you’re only in town for the weekend, being active while taking in some sites is preferable. One does not walk in LA without a dog, so take a cab to the Hollywood Hills for a hike. We did a Hikes & Bikes LA walk to the Hollywood sign with our guide Josh, an aspiring stand-up comic with an encyclopedic knowledge of the area’s history and highlights, and puns aplenty. 

Get close enough to touch the Hollywood sign (but don’t) with a Hikes & Bikes LA tour (c) Rebecca Cox

PARTY: The Comedy Store 

For comedians who have made the leap from side-hustling to a tight 15 minutes with a paying audience, however, head to iconic venue The Comedy Store and choose from The Main Room with themed shows and big name headliners or (perfect for out-of-towners) The Original Room, where you’ll enjoy a rolling roster of comics, some big, some new, with something for everyone. There’s a two-drink minimum so you’ll be there long enough to find one or two comics you love (Kirk Fox’s dry and abstract apocalypse monologue was genius, in my opinion), and a few you don’t. Occasionally the really big names stop by to try out some new material, and while we didn’t catch any on the night we went, we did witness one young comic bomb spectacularly have a full screaming melt-down. thecomedystore.com

There’s plenty of screaming to be found elsewhere too, of course, with some of the world’s most iconic rock music venues and party spots all located on the Sunset Strip. The Whisky a Go Go opened in 1964, launching the careers of The Doors, Mötley Crüe, and Guns N’ Roses, while The Troubadour has been going since the 1950s and has played host to Elton John and the Eagles. The Roxy Theatre has seen performances by Bruce Springsteen and Bob Marley while The Viper Room was once graced by Johnny Cash. While these iconic venues have largely been replaced by stadium capacity arenas for the big shows, they remain a hub for music fans and a great place to discover new artists. 

The Comedy Store (c) Rebecca Cox

West Hollywood is also the LGBTQIA+ centre of LA and home to the Los Angeles LGBT Center, the world’s largest provider of services for the queer community, and the host of various programmes, events, and advocacy efforts. Santa Monica Boulevard is lined with iconic gay bars, clubs, and restaurants, making it a hub for LGBTQIA+ nightlife. The Abbey is one of the most iconic gay venues in the city and a popular spot for both the day and night. I’ll be back for WeHo Pride.  

FATE: Psychic Shop

Fate may lead you to one of the numerous psychic or tarot offices dotted, like a map of the stars, across the city. Who knows? 

EAT 

All this activity will require fuel. Here comes the hardest choice of the weekend: where to eat. LA’s foodie scene is packed with glitzy fancy favourites with paparazzi waiting curbside and hip healthy eateries where locals congregate. Here are a few to get you started.  

Brunch: Casa Madera

Brunching is a serious business in LA, and Casa Madera at the Mondrian Hotel is seriously good. Serving up the coastal flavours of Mexico on a stylish sunny terrace inspired by the Mayan Riviera, the food is as good as the atmosphere. Expect a chic crowd with live music and performance artists, plus a menu showcasing fresh, seasonal ingredients, with stand-out dishes including truffle scramble and the omelette mexicano. There are stunning views across the city, and a cocktail menu featuring superlative mezcal mixes. It’s a must-visit. thecasamadera.com

Casa Madera (c) Rebecca Cox

Vibey Vegan: Gracias Madre

An affordable and busy spot for a bite to eat or a tequila-based cocktail or two, Gracias Madre is known for its vibrant, plant-based menu crafted from organic, locally sourced ingredients and appealing expansive outdoor patio space. There’s a great set menu for an easy casual dinner before you head out-out. graciasmadre.com

New Hotspot: Stella

There’s always a new hotspot that has locals excited and it’s impossible to get a table at. Book ahead to try out the Michelin recommended Stella, an upscale Italian a few blocks down from celeb favourite Cecconi’s. Designed by Wendy Haworth, Stella aims to transport diners back to 1950s Italy, with a menu of regional Italian dishes by chef Rob Gentile. stellawesthollywood.com 

Star Spot: Cecconi’s

New hotspots come and go, but for the last 15 years this Soho House restaurant outpost has been a celebrity favourite. There’s a decent-sized plant-based menu for veggies and the cocktails are always good. cecconiswesthollywood.com 

Fancy French: Amour

New for 2023, Amour is a Michelin-recommended French brasserie with chic antique decor and a menu that fuses French and Asian influences. Book ahead or chance a walk-up and check out the New Caledonia blue prawn carpaccio or the sesame-roasted lobster. amourweho.love

Buzzy Bite: Barney’s Beanery

If you’re on the rock n roll vibe, Barney’s Beanery is a bar preserved-in-time, where Jim Morrison once sat at the bar and Janice Joplin was last seen alive. It can be a bit of a tourist hotspot but it’s popular with locals, too, and while it offers an array of diner favourites, it was originally a chilli cafe, with the same classic recipe on offer since 1920. barneysbeanery.com

Drive-By Bite: Taco Truck

There’s a plentiful food truck scene in LA, and West Hollywood’s taco trucks are a must if you’re hungry on the move. There are plenty to choose from, Leo’s Taco Truck has 10 locations across the city, for example, but opting for the closest or the one with the longest queue are both perfectly sensible ways of making this choice.  

(c) Rebecca Cox

THE FINAL WORD 

Be guided by angels or carefully build your own itinerary in the City of Angels’ hottest district. There’s something for everyone in the heart of Hollywood, where everything glitters with a sprinkling of stardust. Whatever the tarot tells me: a return is definitely on the cards. 

BOOK

To plan your visit or book a stay check out visitwesthollywood.com