Bora Aksu On His AW25 Collection, Visiting Austria & The BFC’s New Sustainability Requirements

London Fashion Week might be over, but we have yet to get over all the stunning shows that took over the capital. One such show came from London-based Turkish designer Bora Aksu, who delved into the life of Empress Elisabeth of Austria for his AW25 collection. ‘I like telling stories through collections,’ he tells C&TH. ‘For me the collection development really makes sense if it is based on a story.’ We caught up with Aksu in the moments after his runway show to find out more.

London Fashion Week AW25: The Highlights

Designer Bora Aksu On His AW25 Show At London Fashion Week

Hi Bora, how are you feeling in the aftermath of your AW25 show?

For me shows are always an emotional journey. I am an incurable romantic and my aim as a designer is to seek and define beauty in my own terms. Preparing for shows always involves such hard work but the end is very rewarding.

Bora Aksu AW25 (c) Jason Lloyd-Evans

What can you tell us about your most recent collection?

My main inspiration came from the life of the Empress Elisabeth of Austria, who remains a figure of fascination over 125 years after death. After a recent research expedition to Vienna, visiting the Empress’s residence (now a museum)  and seeing her belongings up close – her sketches, photographs and famous dresses – provided me with a firsthand look at Elisabeth’s beautiful but rather tragic life.

This led me to create a collection that explored the relationship between perfection and imperfection. My design aesthetic fuses a romantic sensibility with raw elegance. Delicately textured fabrics and whimsical detailing are underpinned by a distinctive twist on tailoring that sees darker, more storied elements temper decorative shapes and a translucent use of colour. There is an imperfection to my work which creates purity and beauty. Fashion design for me is a visual language that enables me to communicate with the outside world.

Any specific details we should look out for?

Gothic romanticism – it is in all the details.

It’s hard for me to choose a favourite look this season, as they all represent different stages I went through to build the collection.

Bora Aksu AW25 (c) Jason Lloyd-Evans

What do you love most about London Fashion Week?

As a designer, I’ve come to love London Fashion Week for all the support it’s given me. Retaining my design identity is something that I have always kept very close to my heart – that was my only tool to keep doing what I’m meant to be doing – and London Fashion Week gives us a secure platform to do just that.

Your design identity is like your own design language; no one else has the same language, so it’s crucial to own it and keep evolving with each and every collection within your own signature style. I like telling stories through collections; for me the collection development really makes sense if it is based on a story. Even the fabrics, textures or contrasts within the collection become a representation of certain elements of storytelling. Some stories, especially ones more personal to me or based on my childhood, probably stand out in my mind more than the others.

Any thoughts on London Fashion Week’s new Sustainability Requirements?

The world is in such a fragile state, with wars, the global climate crisis and financial challenges, so I believe that we all need hope right now. Ultimately fashion should bring hope and encouragement into the times we live in and help us move into a better world. I think that finding a better world can only happen when we discover our better selves.

Sustainability – and any efforts to protect the natural sources we have – is even more essential than ever. Fashion of course should be more sustainable, but it needs a collective approach. And London Fashion Week is now putting this mentality into practice. We need to all understand that sustainability is one of the main paths that we all need to take to help nature restore itself. Designers can work to this goal, but I think the end customer has the most power. If they make good choices then the mass production entities have to follow.

Bora Aksu AW25 (c) Jason Lloyd-Evans

What’s next for you?

Taking a short break to see my family is on my to do list. I also have a long trip through Korea, Singapore and Hong Kong to visit my stores to plan for the near future.

Anything else you’d like our readers to know?

I believe that designers should stay true to their individual design language more than ever. The fashion and trends attached to fashion change so fast, and as a designer I believe it’s important to have the awareness of these changes – but it’s even more important to be loyal to your design identity.

Images courtesy of Bora Aksu (c) Jason Lloyd-Evans