10 Facts You Should Know About The Chanel Flap Bag

Chanel is the home of beautiful things: dresses, suits, fragrances, cosmetics and, of course, bags. But while many handbags come and go, none have the true staying power of a Chanel Flap Bag. Get to know the House’s signature accessory – and its origins – below.

What Is A Chanel Flap Bag?

Instantly recognisable, the Chanel Flap Bag is probably the House’s most beloved accessory. First designed by Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel herself in the 1950s, the handbag is renowned for its quilted leather design, chain strap and distinctive lock.

10 Facts About The Chanel Classic Flap Bag

1. Coco Chanel Based The Original Flap Bag Design On Soldier’s Bags

When Coco Chanel first began designing women’s handbags in 1929, the common fashion at the time was something closer to clutch bag or short strap bag – something that would require manual carrying. Tired of carrying them in her arms, Chanel went about designing a handbag that would leave her hands free. The designer cited soldiers’ bags as the initial inspiration for what would become the House’s first flap bag, adding thinner straps to give her creation a more streamlined, elegant feel.

Chanel didn’t debut the handbag properly until after WWII, during which time she closed her shops – and didn’t re-enter the fashion scene until the 1950s. It was during her re-entry period that she updated the Chanel Classic Flap Bag, renaming it the 2.55 after the year it was released. The rest, they say, is history.

Gabrielle Chanel, Photo by Roger Schall

2. The Burgundy Lining Is A Nod To Chanel’s Childhood

While today you’ll find the lining of Chanel bags dressed in a multiple colours, the colour most associated with the House is a rich burgundy. Many of Chanel’s early handbags were lined in a deep red leather – including the Classic Flap Bag. It’s thought that the colour choice was a sentimental nod to the colour of the children’s uniforms worn in the convent of Aubazine, where Coco Chanel was raised.

3. Convent Life Also Inspired The Chain Strap…

And rather than adopt a leather strap for the House’s signature bag, Chanel turned to chains. The first Chanel purses had all-chain straps – although the modern version is now a combination of leather and chain – which were supposedly inspired by the key chains worn in the convent of Aubazine. Caretakers at the convent held keys at their waist, dangling from a chain – the same type of chains that were then used for the 2.55.

4. … And The Quilting

There are multiple supposed inspirations for the Chanel Flap Bag’s signature diamond-shaped quilting. Some say it was the cushions in Coco Chanel’s Paris apartment or the riding coats worn by male stablehands and jockeys at the time. But it has also been suggested that the stained glass windows in the abbey at Aubazine – in particular, their diamond shape – that gave the 2.55 its quilted design.

5. It Has A Hidden Love Letter Compartment

If you’ve ever found yourself in possession of a Chanel Flap Bag, you’ll have noticed that it contains a zippered compartment on the inside of the front flap. Rumour has it that this ‘secret’ compartment was added because Coco Chanel liked to use it to store love letters. While the jury’s out on whether this was true or not, it still makes for stylish (and subtle) storage space.

6. The CC Lock Only Appeared In The 1980s

Coco Chanel’s original Flap Bag featured a fixed hardware clasp with a twisting rectangle in the centre. Known as the ‘Mademoiselle Lock’, it was reportedly a reference to Coco Chanel never marrying. It wasn’t until the 1980s, when Karl Lagerfeld redesigned the classic bag, that the interlocking CC locks were added to the front.

7. There Are Three Major Versions Of The Chanel Flap Bag

Speaking of, there are three versions of the handbag – and all slightly differ from the next. But despite the rather confusing taxonomy, they can be differentiated. The three classifications are:

1. The 2.55: These refer to Coco Chanel’s original design with the Mademoiselle Lock (and sometimes the fully chain strap, if vintage enough).
2. The Classic Flap: The second iteration, created following Karl Lagerfeld’s redesign in the 1980s. These bags feature the CC lock.
3. The Reissue: A 2005 version of the 2.55, reintroduced by Lagerfeld as an exact recreation of the original 2.55. Strictly speaking, a Reissue refers to the bags created in 2005, but the term is used generally for all recently made 2.55 Chanel Flap Bags.

8. The Difference Between The Double Flap & Single Flap Is Important

You might have heard talk of double and single flap designs when the topic of a Chanel bag comes up – and it’s important to know the distinction. A double flap refers to a bag having an exterior flap closure and an interior flap compartment, while a single flaps have an exterior flap with an open interior. The Classic Flap and the 2.55 traditionally feature a double flap, although the former has been made in certain sizes that mean it had to have a single flap.

But the single flap design was discontinued a few years back, meaning that all 2.55 and Classic Flap bags produced now come with a double flap design.

9. A Chanel Flap Bag Cost $220 In 1955

The first Chanel Flap Bags were priced at $220, which is around $2,591.27 in today’s purchasing power. And the price has only risen in subsequent decades. The Reissue, for example, can go for as much as $11,500 and up (depending on rarity, condition, materials and market demand) these days.

A number of Chanel bags experienced price hikes in 2023, with some models increasing by 12.96 percent. The House’s classic bags have seen an increase of almost 25 percent over the last two years alone (between 2022 and 2024), and it’s expected this trend will continue for the next few years.

10. And The Price Only Goes Up With Resale

While new Chanel flap bags continuously increase in price, so do their preloved counterparts. The luxury resale market is forecasted to grow by 8.5 percent over the next few years, with a forecasted value of $77.8 billion by 2033. And amongst all the brands out there, Chanel items are expected to come out on top when it comes to resale value. ‘I’d say the French brands hold their value the best on resale,’ Hanushka Toni, founder and CEO of vintage resale platform Sellier, told C&TH. ‘The market is probably strongest for Chanel and Hermès… It’s not uncommon for pieces from these brands to appreciate in value after they’ve left the store, which makes buying and selling vintage all the more lucrative.’

But which Chanel bag makes for a good investment? ‘A Chanel Classic Flap from the pre-2008 era is a great choice,’ says Hanushka. ‘These bags were crafted with 24k gold-plated hardware, which is no longer used in modern versions, making them highly desirable. Look for one in excellent condition; minimal corner wear, unscuffed edges, and hardware that remains bright and shiny. With a finite number available, these bags continue to rise in value and are often available at a significant discount compared to new ones.’

Featured image: Chanel