This Eco-Indigo Dye Cuts Jeans Carbon Emissions In Half

Denim might be one of the most hard-wearing fashion fabrics, but it’s hard work creating it, too. The average pair of jeans takes more than 2000 litres of water to make, and more than 33kg of CO2. So steps forward in decarbonising the denim industry are always worth a closer look. 

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Introducing the Citizens of Humanity X Pili Eco Denim

Premium denim brand Citizens of Humanity Group has partnered with French biochemicals company Pili and Turkish denim mill Orta to launch Eco-Indigo, a bio-based dye that will debut in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE. The innovative dye, developed by Pili, utilises renewable resources and advanced biotechnology to replace petroleum-based indigo dyes. This partnership aligns with Citizens of Humanity’s broader commitment to regenerative practices, including its Regenerative Cotton Programme. The collection is now available on Net-A-Porter, citizensofhumanity.com and agolde.com. 

What Is Pili?

Founded in 2015, Pili is a French biotechnology company specialising in sustainable dyes and pigments. Using a hybrid process that combines industrial fermentation with green chemistry, Pili has developed bio-based alternatives for some of the most polluting applications in textiles, inks, and coatings. 

Pili’s mission is to decarbonise the colour industry by significantly reducing reliance on fossil resources and harmful chemicals. Their bio-indigo dye cuts CO2 emissions by up to 50 percent compared to traditional petroleum-based dyes.

AGOLDE
V Waist Baggy mid-rise straight-leg jeans

How Does This Dye Process Differ from Traditional Jeans?

Traditional indigo dyeing processes rely heavily on petroleum-derived chemicals and generate significant environmental harm through water pollution and chemical waste. Producing one pair of jeans can consume between 2,000 and 5,000 liters of water.

In contrast, Pili’s Eco-Indigo employs a sustainable fermentation process that eliminates toxic chemicals and reduces water usage. The bio-indigo integrates into existing production systems without requiring additional investments in dyeing equipment. 

How Much Carbon Does the Denim Industry Produce?

The denim industry is one of fashion’s largest contributors to greenhouse gas emissions. Manufacturing a single pair of jeans generates an estimated 33 to 80 kilograms of CO2 equivalent emissions across its lifecycle, which is comparable to driving a passenger car nearly 50 miles. Globally, textile manufacturing uses approximately 2 million tonnes of dyes annually, most of which are derived from fossil fuels.

Beyond Eco-Denim

Buying responsibly produced denim and collections that prioritise considered production techniques is not the only option in sustainable fashion. The first two ‘R’s are well worth a first thought: reduce and reuse. Vintage and rental denim options may be a more eco-conscious option, while the jeans already in your wardrobe might have a few years left in them yet.