The Librarian Cut Was Made For The Cowlick Girls

By Charlie Colville

11 hours ago

We're obsessed with this big, bouncy blowout


Find yourself wrestling with unruly strands more often than not? The latest hair trend could offer you a reprieve: working with the grain (or cowlick) rather than against it. Here’s why hair salons are singing the praises of the viral librarian cut.

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What Is A Librarian Cut?

‘The librarian cut captures that quintessential, over-exaggerated 80s blowout with bangs – a contemporary twist,’ explains celebrity stylist Nicholas James. ‘When I think of the librarian cut, I think of the sexy librarian in an 80s move with big, bouncy bangs that complements her natural beauty – and steals the bad boy’s heart.’

The cut, which was brought into the spotlight by The Hair Bros (hairstylists Nick Latham and Sean Paul Nother), was built around embracing one very specific hair ‘flaw’: cowlicks. Aka, that bit of hair that grows in a completely different direction and usually drives you crazy.

@thehairbros Cowlick Fringe. Because “Fringes and Cowlicks can never go together.” At least a quarter of the clients we see have a cowlick. In the past where fringes and bangs were perfect, straight and very blunt it is true, a cowlick would cause chaos. But these days where everything is softer, hair moves more, then a cowlick can actually work beautifully with your fringe if it’s cut in the right way. #fringes #cowlick #bangs #haircut #hairtutorial #beauty #transformation #hairtransformation #thehairbros #fy #fyp ♬ Can’t Be Sure – The Sundays

‘Cowlicks are small sections of hair that grow in a different direction to the hair natural progression. They’re most obvious when it’s along the hairline,’ says Nicholas. Having a cowlick can feel like a curse when your feed is filled with inspiration for wispy bangs.’

‘There’s a common myth that fringes and cowlicks can’t work together – we’ve never believed in this,’ the Hair Bros explain. ‘In the past – when bangs were perfect, straight and very blunt – a cowlick would cause chaos. But these days, when everything is softer and hair moves more, a cowlick can actually work beautifully with your fringe if it’s cut in the right way.’

And that’s where the librarian cut comes in. ‘The librarian cut has grown in popularity amongst the cowlick community, as the fringe aligns with the natural direction of the hair,’ notes Noicholas. ‘The librarian cut embraces the cowlick’s natural lift with volumised bangs. This style embraces the natural movement of the hair, seamlessly blending into the rest of the hair, instead of weighing down the hairline with a fringe.’

So think big, bouncy hair with a fluffy fringe – slightly messy, and most definitely with a cowlick or two.

Who’s Wearing The Cut?

There’s one woman who springs to mind for Nicholas: Anne Hathaway. ‘She has been seen sporting this style on multiple occasions,’ he tells us. ‘This effortlessly chic cut compliments Anne’s oval-shaped, flattering her face’s natural slenderness and high cheekbones, really opening up her eyes and flaunting her features.’

@sashalilliex best compliment of 2024 🫶🏻🫶🏻🎀🎀 (now must learn to get my hair to hold a hairstyle for longer 🥲) #brookeshieldshair ♬ Seasons – Sam Austins

Who Suits This Cut?

As long as you’ve got a cowlick, you can work this haircut well, says Nicholas. ‘The librarian cut works with all hair types, given that your hair has extra volume on your hairline,’ he says. ‘When it comes to face shapes, the librarian cut looks beautiful on those with oval-shaped or heart-shaped faces as its softness the face’s appearance, blending into soft layers which cascade down the lengths.’

How To Ask For A Librarian Cut In The Salon

When it comes to requesting a librarian cut in the salon, Nicholas recommends asking for a cut tailored to your specific hair type (and cowlick). ‘The beauty of the librarian cut is it can be completely customised to suit your individual style and appearance,’ he says. ‘Depending on the desired length of the bangs, the stylist should examine the direction in which your cowlicks is growing and work from there. An inspiration picture is always welcome – this will show your stylist exactly what your vision is.’

How To Style A Librarian Cut

For the full effect, a ‘good bouncy, over-exaggerated blowout’ is in order. ‘I always say the more flicky bits, the better,’ adds Nicholas. ‘Using a round-brush to style the bangs away from the face will embrace the cowlick’s movement and make for a totally 80s inspired look.’

What Next?

The librarian cut is just the first step into nostalgia, says Nicholas. ‘I think we’ll be seeing a lot more 80s inspired dos,’ he forecasts. ‘Their effortlessly cool, retro vibe is incredible. In terms of the librarian cut, I’d love to see people experimenting with their colour for this one. This would look incredible with two-tone hair, with contrasting colours blending in the hair.’

Hair Inspiration

 

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Featured image: AW25 Copenhagen Fashion Week Street Style (c) Noor-u-nisa