It’s Time We Started Treating Our Heads To Scalp Facials – Here’s Why
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52 mins ago
Smarten up your scalp
Juliet Herd asks the experts to get to the root of hair and scalp problems, rounding up some of the cutting-edge scalp facials designed to leave you with stronger, shinier and healthier locks.
Everything You Need To Know About Scalp Facials
Hair and scalp health has never been so buzzworthy, from the rise of dedicated head spas to TikTok videos of rhapsodising influencers being given the ultimate Japanese scalp facials.
But until recently, many of us considered a brisk head massage at our local hair salon yo be the height of pampering. What we only seem to be registering now in the west – unlike in Japan and India, where scalp health is prioritised as a matter of course – is how important maintaining a healthy crown is for overall hair growth and, indeed, our general wellbeing.
Did you know that the scalp contains between 80,000 and 120,000 follicles from which hair grows? And given that each hair follicle is embedded in the scalp, and both your scalp and follicles have their own microbiome (the scalp is made up of five layers of living tissue), it stands to reason that a well-nourished and clean scalp will ensure healthier hair.
If, however, follicles become clogged with either sebum, sweat or product buildup – in much the same way as the pores on your face – it can lead to issues such as dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, itchiness and scalp infections. These conditions, in turn, can weaken hair at its roots and cause inflammation and hair loss. Environmental damage from the sun, pollution or neglect can also age both the scalp and hair, causing dryness, thinning, and dullness over time.
Women are particularly prone to hair loss due to hormonal changes, often during pregnancy and menopause, but also because of stress. ‘Hair loss is a prevalent concern, affecting both older and younger women,’ says leading London hair stylist Adem Oygur.
‘Menopause brings hormonal changes, particularly a decline in oestrogen, which can lead to thinning and increased shedding. This is a natural part of the ageing process for many women, but we’re increasingly seeing younger women experiencing hair thinning and hair loss due to factors like stress; nutritional deficiencies (like iron, vitamin D, biotin); medical conditions like polycystic ovary syndromel; or even lifestyle habits, such as excessive styling and poor haircare. Postpartum hair loss is another significant concern.’
Fortunately, a raft of cutting-edge treatments and products (which focus on nourishing hair follicles, boosting blood circulation, increasing hydration and alleviating scalp problems) are now on offer to give your neglected noggin the attention it deserves.
As Elena Lavagni, co-owner of top London salon Neville Hair and Beauty, says: ‘Our scalp is just as important as our skin – it’s the foundation for healthy hair. Just as we cleanse, exfoliate, and moisturise our skin, the scalp needs the same level of care.’
Read on for advice from the experts, as well as a guide to some of the best scalp and hair treatments out there.
Kama Ayurveda
Best For: Bespoke Diagnosis
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To really get down to the nitty-gritty of your own scalp health, head (no pun intended) to Kama Ayurveda in Notting Hill for a complimentary consultation. As Ayurveda’s holistic philosophy is built upon treating the cause rather than the symptoms, caring for the roots is fundamental.
One of the India-based skincare brand’s resident Ayurvedic doctors will undertake a precise analysis of your scalp and hair condition, using camera technology to magnify individual follicles to pinpoint any clogging, flaking or thinning. You’ll then be given a personalised treatment plan, incorporating products based on medicinal recipes of ancient Ayurvedic botanical oils, tonics and blends.
‘It’s fascinating to see how, when individuals in a group undergo scalp analysis together, they discover just how different their scalp needs are,’ says Dr Shivani Misra of Kama Ayurveda. ‘This not only highlights the importance of personalised haircare but also reinforces the idea that scalp health can vary significantly from person to person, even within the same group.’
In Dr Shivani’s experience, between 75 to 80 percent of people show signs of product buildup on their scalp. She attributes the increase in scalp issues to the widespread use of products like dry shampoo and hair wax. ‘While these products offer convenience, they can lead to significant buildup, blocking pores and causing irritation or inflammation over time.’
There’s also a lack of awareness of scalp health. ‘Many people focus on their hair and neglect the importance of maintaining a healthy scalp’ she says. ‘Instead of massaging the scalp or using treatments that nourish the skin beneath the hair, there’s a tendency to rely on leave-in serums and styling products that may not address the root cause of scalp imbalances.’
‘This combination of product use, lack of proper scalp care and external pollutants is creating the perfect storm for scalp health issues, making it even more critical for people to understand and prioritise their scalp’s needs,’ Dr Shivani adds.
As an Ayurvedic doctor, she focuses on identifying any underlying imbalances in the body’s energy forces or doshas (vata, pitta, and kapha). ‘When examining the scalp, we pay close attention to the doshas that may be aggravated,’ she explains. ‘A dry, flaky scalp typically indicates an imbalance of the vata dosha, while an inflamed or irritated scalp is often a sign of increased pitta. If a client experiences a greasy scalp shortly after washing, this may be due to an excess of kapha dosha.’
A cornerstone of Indian haircare for centuries, the ritual of hair oiling comes with a wealth of benefits: scalp massage stimulates circulation, which, in turn, nourishes the hair’s roots, making way for healthy hair growth. It can also contribute to lower stress levels and an improvement in sleep.
Kama Ayurveda’s new hero product is the Bringadi Scalp & Hair Oil, a blend of 13 botanical extracts, including key ingredient False Daisy. Known in India as the ;king of hair’, False Daisy (bhringaraj) is rich in anti-inflammatory agents and antioxidants such as flavonoids and phytosterols, which strengthen the hair and promote growth while nourishing and calming the scalp to prevent dandruff and dryness.
Simply massage a few drops into your scalp, working it through your hair from root to tip, and leave in for 20 minutes, a few hours or overnight before gently washing out. You can also use the new Kansa brush, crafted from a combination of Ayurvedic healing metals, for both exfoliation and massage.
‘Rather than just alleviating discomfort, Ayurvedic treatments seek to correct imbalances through personalised diet, lifestyle changes, herbal remedies, and therapies, promoting long-term health and wellness,’ says Dr Shivani. ‘By focusing on the cause, Ayurveda supports the body’s natural ability to heal itself and prevent future ailments.’
BOOK IT
Bringadi Scalp & Hair Oil, £54; Kansa brush, £75. Scalp & Hair Diagnosis available at Kama Ayurveda’s flagship store on Westbourne Grove in Notting Hill and at its 5th floor concession in Harrods. kamaayurveda.com
Neville Hair & Beauty
Best For: Therapeutic Massage
Co-owner Elena Lavagni has seen every hair condition under the sun during more than 25 years running the iconic Belgravia salon, but she’s recently witnessed an increase in hair and scalp issues, predominantly hair loss in women.
‘As a salon owner, I’ve seen it all: dry scalps, oily roots, thinning hair, and breakage,’ says Elena. ‘These issues can stem from environmental factors and stress to over-styling and product buildup. A common concern we address is an imbalanced scalp – whether it’s excessive dryness or oiliness.
‘Clients often don’t realise that the scalp is the foundation for healthy hair and neglecting it can lead to more serious problems like hair thinning or loss. We also see a lot of damage from heat styling and chemical treatments, which leave hair fragile and prone to split ends.’
While hormonal changes during menopause are one of the most common causes of hair loss in women, other lifestyle factors like stress, poor diet and sleep deprivation also play a significant role. ‘There’s definitely been an increase in hair loss among women in recent years,’ says Elena. ‘We often see women who are juggling careers, families and other responsibilities, and this stress can manifest in their hair health.
‘Younger clients are coming to us with thinning hair or early signs of hair loss more frequently than ever. Factors like stress, nutrient deficiencies and overuse of chemical treatments or heat tools are contributing to this trend. Genetics also play a big role – if there’s a family history of hair loss, it can start earlier than expected.’
New to this constantly innovating salon is the Rejuvenation Steam Scalp Facial, a scalp revitalising treatment curated by senior stylist Liz Cacoilas and described as the perfect antidote for frazzled hair and dehydrated scalp.
The treatment’s secret superpower is the Sweden-based Sachajuan product line, formulated with its proprietary Ocean Silk Technology, a blend of cold-water algae and naturally derived ingredients. Products like Rhodophycea and Chondrus algae work on both the surface and interior of the hair, enhancing hair’s mineral balance and adding long-lasting moisture and shine.
The ‘facial’ starts with a relaxing, 10-minute dry brushing session designed to stimulate your scalp’s natural oils. The Sachajuan Scalp Treatment is then massaged throughout the hair before you are treated to a luxurious 15-minute steam session. This is followed by a scalp scrub and Shiatsu massage, which not only cleanses and exfoliates but hydrates hair and strengthens strands and follicles.
You’re not finished yet, though. There’s an additional five-minute steam session before hair is rinsed and washed using shampoo and conditioner chosen to match your hair type. The treatment concludes with a professional blow dry, allowing you to fully admire your new crowning glory.
‘The Rejuvenation Steam Scalp Facial is our way of giving the scalp the care and attention it deserves,’ says Elena. ‘The process not only detoxifies the scalp but also promotes circulation, helping to deliver nutrients to the hair follicles and encouraging healthier growth.’
BOOK IT
The Scalp Revitalising Treatment, 90 minutes, £150. nevillehairandbeauty.net
Adem
Best For: Nutrient-Rich Oils
One of the first things you notice on entering Adem Oygur’s eponymous salon in Belgravia is the row of glass jars hanging from the ceiling – in which, it transpires, hazelnut oil is being distilled. ‘The process involves cold pressing the nuts to preserve their nutrients and purity,’ he tells us. ‘It’s labour intensive but ensures the oil is as fresh and potent as possible for our clients.’
The hair stylist has a deeply personal connection to this super-nut as it comes directly from his family’s farm in Divaniturk, about 800 kilometres east of Istanbul, Turkey. ‘It takes approximately 2.5 kilograms of hazelnuts to produce a single litre of oil,’ he continues. ‘Each year, we harvest several tonnes of hazelnuts, ensuring we maintain sustainable practices to support both the environment and the longevity of our farm.’
It’s no surprise he has created his own ADEM range of organic hazelnut oil skin and haircare products, made with extracted hazelnut oil picked and pressed on the family farm. He swears by the humble hazelnut’s health benefits.
‘Its rich content of fatty acids, vitamin E and antioxidants helps moisturise the scalp and hair, improving elasticity and reducing breakage,’ Adem explains. ‘With mild antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, hazelnut oil can also soothe irritation and combat dandruff. And when massaged into the scalp, the oil boosts blood flow, which can nourish hair follicles and indirectly support growth.’
For a truly transformative hair experience, you can indulge in a bespoke scalp facial, which includes going under a 20-minute hydrating steam mist machine.
As Adem says. ‘The scalp is simply an extension of the skin, and its condition directly impacts the health of your hair.’
BOOK IT
Pure Hazelnut Oil Hair & Body, £52; Scalp treatment, £45. adem.london
Gustav Fouche
Best For: Tailored Treatments
When you’re offered such a delicious-sounding treatment as the GF Fabulosity Hair and Scalp Recovery Elixir, it’s almost impossible to resist. It’s all part of celebrity hair stylist Gustav Fouche’s luxurious new Glowdry experience at his flagship Notting Hill salon.
‘How often do you wash your face?’ he says. ‘Your scalp is a continuation of the face. If you shampoo every day and use heat tools, it can be detrimental. It’s so important that you cleanse and hydrate your scalp.’
Described as ‘a blow-dry like no other’, the Glowdry treatment begins with an in-salon consultation that involves analysing your scalp and hair using a high-powered microscope, to enable your stylist to recommend the right products for your hair.
Gustav’s award-winning range of natural shampoos and conditioners are especially formulated to treat different hair types. ‘For example, they all have a different amount of protein depending on what your hair needs,’ explains the South Africa-born stylist. ‘For moisture, I have added babassu oil and for volume, you’ll find camelia seed and baobab oil.’
Next, Gustav’s star elixir treatment is applied to dry hair (it can be left in overnight). It’s packed with multi-tasking rice aminos, which help to bind moisture to increase hair elasticity and density, as well as a potent antioxidant, the Ayurvedic ingredient amla. ‘With its milky texture, you can add it generously,’ he explains.
All you need to do then is sit back and relax for the next 20 minutes or so under the state-of-the-art Micro Mist machine.
Available in only a handful of salons worldwide, the magic machine infuses essential moisture into the hair follicles through osmosis. As the name suggests, it uses mist (not steam) generated by ultrasound. As the particles are smaller than those of steam, they can penetrate the hair cuticle to greater depth.
After the Micro Mist treatment, a clear gloss (which helps to eliminate unwanted colour from the hair) is applied, followed by a wash combining a soothing scalp massage to promote blood circulation and detoxification, and finishing with a low heat blow-dry that leaves your hair and scalp seriously revitalised. Or as Gustav declares: ‘Your hair feels like butter. Lush, lush, lush.’
BOOK IT
GF Fabulosity Hair & Scalp Recovery Elixir, £53; Glowdry, 90, minutes, £200. gustavfouche.com
Flora Lab Paris
Best For: Luxury Scalp Facials
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Pioneering molecular ‘skin therapy for hair’ brand Flora Lab Paris has just launched its first UK hair spa at Harrods.
Based on Croatia-born founder Nikolina Kisic Mamic’s belief that ‘scalp care is the new hair care’, the Flora spa experience is like a facial for the scalp – and every bit as luxurious. It addresses all your individual scalp and hair needs, from anti-ageing and anti-hair loss to restoring scalp vitality, stimulating stem cell renewal and balancing your microbiome.
After making your way to the 5th floor hair and beauty mecca where the Flora product line is also available, your treatment begins with a diagnostic micro-camera evaluation. This is followed by a series of wellness-focused steps, including signature bespoke massages to stimulate collagen, promote hair growth and prevent hair loss. High-tech devices such as radio-frequencies and the Flora Nano Oxygen Device are also employed to deliver optimum results.
The experience is personalised at every stage. Your therapist will customise the concentration of active ingredients such as keratin, ceramides, amino acids, microbiome boosters, lipopeptides and hyaluronic acids, to deeply cleanse and toxify the scalp and rejuvenate natural or coloured hair. (And with 41 clean and vegan biomimetic formulas – mixed with delicious fragrances inspired by island scents – on the menu, that’s a lot of choice.)
Long-time beauty executive Nikolina, who splits her time between Paris and Croatia and who comes from a family of hairdressers, spent more than 18 years developing her science-backed, multi-step brand, convinced that it was time for a new approach to haircare – the ‘skinification’ of hair, as she puts it.
‘The scalp is a part of our skin and possesses an ultra-sensitive microbiome. A healthy scalp is essential for beautiful and robust hair,’ she tells us. ‘It’s time to change our perspective on the world of haircare and to provide transparent discourse and rituals that truly work.’
‘Why not treat our hair like we treat our face?,’ she adds. ‘Do we simply camouflage a skin issue with makeup? No, and yet that’s exactly what has been happening for generations with our hair. We colour it, suffocate it with chemicals, and daily damage it with styling products – a cycle perpetuated by the beauty industry. Taking care of our hair is taking care of ourselves!’
BOOK IT
Flora signature hair spa, 45 minutes, £100. harrods.com | floralabparis.com
