6 Hotels Preserving The Magic Of The French Polynesia

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A tour of some of the world's most treasured islands

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French Polynesia is one of the world’s most beautiful places, says Yasemen Kaner-White, who singles out six hotels working to preserve it

Best Hotels In The French Polynesia

The natural landscapes and ocean swims I experienced in French Polynesia are the kind that remain in your memory for a lifetime. This swathe of 121 islands scattered through 2,000km of the South Pacific is one of the most beautiful places I’ve visited, so it’s even more logical to want to preserve it. The local populations agree and sustainability is an entrenched way of life for indigenous folk throughout the atolls and islets – and has been embraced by the hotels I stayed in, from a private-island eco-powerhouse to a tiny family-run ‘shack’. It’s a long journey, but with a sweet-scented gardenia in my hair (every passenger on Air Tahiti is given one), I arrived bursting with curiosity.

InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa

My Polynesian adventure began with a night in Tahiti at the Intercontinental where you can swim in pristine pools, or rub shoulders with a bounty of colourful fish in the lagoon. The hotel is home to rescued turtles that have been tangled in fishing nets or injured through ingesting plastic. There’s an educational hub, where guests can learn how to help. Don’t miss a meal at Le Lotus restaurant under the helm of two-Michelin-starred chef Bruno Oger.

BOOK IT: tahiti.intercontinental.com

The Brando

The Brando is a dreamy location on the private island Tetiaroa, once owned by the late Marlon Brando. From my spacious villa – featuring locally handcrafted palm decorations and artwork – I could be in the ocean in one minute by foot. While this resort may ooze luxury in terms of seamless service and presentation, it remains rooted in its sense of place and the (many local) staff’s pride for Polynesian culture shone through. The food reflects indigenous cuisine with added flare – the tuna belly with unctuous lemon confit will remain a favourite.

The resort’s crucial modern sustainability practices are best witnessed on the complimentary Green Tour, which I highly recommend to any guest. I learned about sea water air conditioning, which harnesses cold water from the ocean’s depths to cool down every building on the atoll, saving an incredible 90 percent in energy consumption in comparison to conventional air conditioning units. The tour is led by the in-house non-profit Tetiaroa Society, which through education, conservation and science exists to protect natural habitat with initiatives such as eliminating invasive species and reintroducing endangered native species. There are rows upon rows of solar panels and everything is recycled or repurposed, from broken plastic sandals to leftover food. The resort’s use of local wood is particularly eye-catching in the spa, where the bird’s nest made from woven branches raises guests above ground, so they feel nestled in natural seclusion.

BOOK IT: thebrando.com

Motu Nao Nao

Reached from Raiatea by boat, Motu Nao Nao is another swish, secluded and self-sustained 75-acre private island where guests can imagine being washed up and landing in untouched paradise. The three solar panel-fuelled villas are designed to meld into nature, and the chef serves creative dishes made from organic garden produce; ask him nicely to whip up the ginger lily sorbet – wow. Polynesian activities are offered, including making fragranced monoi (coconut) oil, and cooking classes.

BOOK IT: motunaonao.com

NIU Shack

Raiatea is known as the sacred heart of Polynesian culture. I visited Tiki (sacred idol statues) and enjoyed a healing immersion with practitioner Naïki Lutz from Aroha Experience. My home here was the mother and daughter-run NIU Shack, an off-grid self-sustained boutique hotel hidden in the forest. This is in an impossibly peaceful location, where I experienced first-hand how locals live, from pressing coconut milk to preparing natural body scrubs and delicious vegan dishes using home-grown produce. I found my bed for the night with a solar charged torch, sleeping without walls, open to the world and the melodies it makes.

BOOK IT: niushack.com

Kia Ora Resort & Spa

Rangiroa is touted as one of Polynesia’s best islands to snorkel. More unusually, it’s also home to the Vin de Tahiti winery, where locals grow grape vines on beds of coral, their organic approach keeping the vineyard in harmony with its environment. My base was the Kia Ora Resort & Spa, where overwater villas offer maximum ocean views, while the coral reef restoration projects, commitment to waste reduction, energy efficiency and water conservation ensure it is one of the leading sustainability hotels in French Polynesia.

BOOK IT: hotelkiaora.com

Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora

And so to Bora Bora, and an exhilarating boat ride from the airport to the Four Seasons. Here I dipped in and out of the ocean and my book, my home an exquisite solar-panelled overwater villa. I dined that night in the overwater Asian-inspired Vaimiti restaurant, the highlight being the tasty roasted maitake mushrooms, a spicy vegan version of satay. The next day, I had a delightful taurumi massage in the jaw-droppingly beautiful spa and took a quick self-guided botanical tour. Then it was time to go: what a beautiful way to end this trip, and a good reason to return.

BOOK IT: fourseasons.com