The Best Hotels in Cornwall & St Ives
By CTH Editors
4 months ago
Beaches, ice-cream and first-class lodging...
Colourfully nostalgic seaside towns, golden sands and rolling farmland: it’s no wonder that Cornwall has captured the hearts of authors, foodies and city families looking for a brief respite from the smog and traffic of London. With a growing tourism scene, there’s no shortage of hotels to choose from when visiting the land of beaches and cream, but as with anything, not all are made equal so here’s our pick of the crème de la crème.
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The Best Hotels in Cornwall & St Ives
Reviews are taken from this year’s Great British & Irish Hotels Guide. Buy your copy from Friday 3 May
Trewornan Manor, Wadebridge
Paul and Lesley Stapleton are natural hosts – genial, welcoming and knowledgeable about the area. In 2014 they rescued this handsome Grade II-listed manor, set in 25 acres of mature gardens, from a state of dilapidation. They have refurbished the place immaculately, retaining fine architectural features while bringing the house into the 21st century. The seven bedrooms have been beautifully and individually decorated, with emperor-sized beds and state-of-the-art bathrooms (the largest also have freestanding baths). The little things haven’t been forgotten either, with hot water bottles and robes upstairs and crackling fires, delicious breakfasts and an honesty bar for help-yourself drinks downstairs. Homemade cakes are baked by Paul’s mother, while the large, airy sitting room is a real home from home. The location close to the Camel Estuary could hardly be better, within striking distance of some of North Cornwall’s best and prettiest towns, beaches, golf courses and restaurants, including Michelin-starred Nathan Outlaw in Port Isaac and Paul Ainsworth in Padstow. A great place to escape the kids.
BOOK
Doubles from £165
+44 (0)1208 812359; trewornanmanor.co.uk
Star Castle Hotel, St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly
Fashioned from a perfect, star-shaped, 16th-century castle on a headland above Hugh Town, this historic hotel is a stellar find, fit for royalty – in fact, it’s welcomed crowned heads from Charles II to our own King Charles. Stretching out behind are the modern Garden Rooms, perfect for families, plus an indoor pool and conservatory dining room, all set in lush grounds. Once the most secure defence post in the British Isles, the castle now has the charm and intimacy of a Cotswold cottage. There’s a cosy bar (formerly the dungeon), first-floor sitting room and stone-walled dining room, with eight charming bedrooms in the castle,
plus three in former guardrooms. As for food, indulge in owner Robert Francis’s two passions, fishing and wine, by eating a steamed lobster that he’s caught himself and drinking a fabulous bottle of Pinot noir or Chardonnay from his HolyVale vineyard, where he lovingly tends 7,000 vines. At breakfast Robert’s son and co-owner, James, arranges guest outings along with the hotel’s boatman, Rafe. It’s a family affair, and a special one at that.
BOOK
Doubles from £205
+44 (0)1720 422317; star-castle.co.uk
Polurrian on the Lizard, Mullion
Situated on Cornwall’s Lizard Peninsula with breathtaking views across the Atlantic, Polurrian on the Lizard is a place where vintage glamour meets coastal-contemporary. Retaining an air of elegance, this spectacular clifftop hangout is every bit as welcoming now as it was when it first opened as a fashionable railway hotel in the 1890s. The property sits within attractive lawned gardens complete with a winding path leading down to its own beach, secluded Polurrian Cove below. The restaurant specialises in Mediterranean-inspired dishes using the finest seasonal local ingredients and classic hand-stretched pizzas are made in the wood-fired Gozney oven. Artisan drinks and enticing cocktails with a Cornish twist are perfect for sipping at the bar, as the sun sets or in the Vista Lounge, which has panoramic ocean views. With direct access to the South West Coast Path, a cliff-top tennis court, indoor and outdoor pools and 12 acres of grounds, the hotel is ideal for anyone who loves the great outdoors. For total relaxation, head to the health club for Elemis treatments and yoga classes.
Doubles from £129, B&B
+44 (0)1326 240421; polurrianhotel.com
Bedruthan Hotel & Spa, Mawgan Porth
Inspired by the work of architect Richard Neutra, family-friendly Bedruthan Hotel & Spa is a striking beachfront escape on the North Cornwall coast and the sister of eco-retreat Scarlet Hotel (see p49). It was designed to connect people with the natural landscape, with floor-to-ceiling windows bringing the outside in and making the most of the stunning sea vistas. Inside, furnishings showcase pops of playful colour and walls act as a gallery for some of the finest work by painters like Alex Morton & Victoria Young Jamieson. Relax and unwind in the indoor thermal spa, which offers a place to chat or snooze in the warmth of the hydropool, sauna, pool and caldarium. The Sensory Spa Garden invigorates the senses, with a cedar barrel sauna, herbal scrubs and wood-fired hot tubs. Or enjoy one of the daily craft sessions available. You can also dine on delicious cuisine in the Wild Cafe, with its oven-fresh baked goods and heartwarming bowls of seasonal ingredients. While pictureque Ogo, celebrates the everchanging coastline, using seasonal veg grown locally alongside sustainably caught fish and ethically farmed meat.
Doubles from £155, B&B
+44 (0)1637 861200; bedruthan.com
Hell Bay Hotel, Bryher, Isles of Scilly
California meets the Atlantic Ocean at this terrific hotel on Bryher’s rugged west coast, in the Isles of Scilly. It’s the creation of the Dorrien-Smith family (custodians of the neighbouring island of Tresco) who have filled the waterfront hotel with modern art, all with a regional connection. Half of the 25 airy suites, most with stunning sea views, have been gently refreshed by Tania Streeter (she is behind The New Inn and cottages on Tresco), who has combined contemporary and antique furniture with sumptuous fabrics by the likes of Jane Churchill and Nina Campbell. You’ll also find a swimming pool, tennis court and fitness rooms, a yoga studio and treatment shed in the grounds. Island-inspired dishes made using local produce are served at Scilly’s only three AA Rosette restaurant (also recently revamped), and at The Crab Shack, a rustic former fisherman’s net loft with long tables and bench seating yards from the shoreline. For a simple supper, nothing tastes better than the Bryher crab. And getting here is easy too, with a helicopter service from Cornwall to Tresco, then a short boat ride across the water.
BOOK
Doubles from £105, B&B
+44 (0)1720 422947; hellbay.co.uk
The Scarlet, Mawgan Porth
Overlooking the sweeping, romantic Mawgan Porth beach, this scintillating eco-hotel blurs the boundaries between inside and out, with glass walls, flat roofs covered in sea thrift and infinity pools that seem to reach to the sea. At the heart of The Scarlet is the womb-like Ayurveda-inspired spa, with tented pods suspended in the dark for deep relaxation. There’s an indoor pool and a reed-fringed, rock-strewn outdoor one, plus two clifftop hot tubs and a sauna overlooking the ocean. Bedrooms come in clusters on several levels, but they’re all soothing, with deep coastal colours, funky touches, excellent lighting, gorgeous beds, and sea and sunset views. As for the delicious food, head chef Jack Clayton has a passion for fusing flavours, foraging and sustainability. The result is exceptional dishes, using everything from fresh samphire from the local beaches to herbs from the coastal path below the gardens. There’s also an impressive collection of sustainable, slow-aged wines. An adult-only sanctuary, The Scarlet has an eco-friendly outlook, with a feeling of soothing, sybaritic luxury. The ultimate escape.
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Doubles from £235, B&B
+44 (0)1637 861800; scarlethotel.co.uk
Artist Residence Penzance
It’s unsurprising that Justin and Charlie Salisbury turned to Cornwall with its vibrant art scene for their second venture after Brighton’s Artist Residence (now there are five locations across the country). In the charming old quarter of Penzance, they have converted a handsome Georgian manor house into a delightfully eclectic hotel, decorated with works of art and a quirky collection of furniture (packing crate tables, sleigh beds) throughout. Rooms include the Chapel Suite, which comes with a brass bathtub in the living area, and the Mini Lookout, an open-plan apartment for three tucked away in the eaves with sea views (ideal for families). The café-bar-restaurant hangout has reclaimed wooden walls, metal tables and art to enjoy alongside your food. Drinks and snacks are on tap all day, plus delicious smoked meat and fish at dinner, courtesy of the smoker in the garden. Here, you’ll also find a bar, table tennis and ping pong, and an al fresco seafood shack serving local lobster rolls, chargrilled steaks and frozen margaritas. An excellent base for exploring this charming corner of Cornwall.
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Doubles from £95
+44 (0)1736 365664; artistresidence.co.uk
The Gurnard’s Head, Zennor
‘It’s about the simple things in life done well,’ say brothers Edmund and Charlie Inkin about their three delightful hostelries, The Gurnard’s Head and The Old Coastguard here in Cornwall and The Felin Fach Griffin in Wales. Nothing could be closer to the truth nor more perfectly exemplified than at this sunshine-yellow dining pub with rooms. Set in the wild landscape of Cornwall’s Atlantic coast between artsy St Ives and pretty St Just, its sweeping views stretch over the crashing waves and gorse-covered Penwith moorland, dotted with passing cows. It’s an unpretentious haven where, in the brightly painted bedrooms, you’ll find luxurious beds, jam jars filled with fresh flowers and Roberts radios. Our favourite is spacious Room 8 with its own log-burning stove and terrace. There are no TVs or phones. But any panic at being cut off quickly gives way to a sense of peace and satisfaction, reinforced by head chef Max Wilson’s divine local and seasonal menu, changed daily according to what’s brought to the back door, be that fish from day boats or vegetables from nearby growers.
Doubles from £167.50; from £255, inc dinner, B&B
+44 (0)1736 796928; gurnardshead.co.uk
The Seafood Restaurant, Padstow
Padstow is synonymous with Rick and Jill Stein. And if a restaurant can be a hub, then Rick’s famous Seafood Restaurant is just that, where red-aproned waiters whizz about in the airy, colourful dining room and a chandelier made of bobbing white fish creates an eye-catching start to your meal. Alternatively, you can eat at St Petroc’s Bistro, Rick Stein’s Café, Stein’s Fish & Chips, or spend the day at Rick’s cookery school, which offers a perfect balance of chef demonstrations and hands-on learning. As for sleeping, choose from a variety of stylish lodgings, each designed by Jill and Kate Stein, and set in charming buildings around Padstow. There are stunning rooms above The Seafood Restaurant, while the simplest can be found above the café and the most luxurious in St Edmunds House, which has oak floors, American shutters and views across the Camel Estuary. Plus, you’ll find four sunny rooms in Prospect House and a further ten in St Petroc’s. For a romantic retreat, one-bedroom Bryn cottage has estuary views and a secluded garden. Finally, for the more adventurous, six warm shepherd’s huts offer beautiful countryside accommodation.
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Doubles from £183
+44 (0)1841 532700; rickstein.com
The Nare, Veryan
Opened in 1989 by Bettye Gray, The Nare is Cornwall’s highest-rated country house hotel. It’s a five-star country house renowned for its genuine comfort and stunning sea views over Carne Beach on Cornwall’s idyllic south coast. Proprietor Toby Ashworth upholds his grandmother’s vision of warm, traditional hospitality and many returning guests are drawn in by the enveloping kindness, door-to-door chauffeur service and the fine food served in the hotel’s two sea-view restaurants. In the splendid, more formal dining room, waitresses dart about in white pinnies and the hors d’oeuvre, flambé and dessert trolleys are on hand. Children are embraced, dogs have their own menus, and there’s an indulgent spa with two pools. From coastal walks to visiting one of the many beautiful gardens, there is plenty to explore nearby. Plus the hotel has a tennis court, an artist in residence who offers painting lessons to guests, and a classic wooden motor launch, Alice Rose, for guests to spend the day exploring the beautiful Fal and Helford Rivers. A place of great British comfort, perfect for extended families.
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Doubles from £396
+44 (0)1872 501111; narehotel.co.uk
The Pig at Harlyn Bay, Padstow
‘Which is your favourite PIG?’ I am often asked. That’s a tough question because I love them all, but it’s this one in the litter that comes trotting to mind first. The hotel is a brooding, mysterious beauty overlooking sweeping Harlyn Bay near Padstow on Corwall’s rugged north coast. It’s another sure-fire hit, with gorgeous, dark, velvety interiors behind dramatic Cornish slate walls and heavy oak doors that were inspired, designer Judy Hutson says, by the stillness of Mark Rylance in Wolf Hall. Contrast these rich and opulent rooms with the airy bistro and separate Lobster Shed restaurant, lawns strewn with wooden easy chairs and wild flowers, and a clutch of wonderful wagons to complement the bedrooms in the house and sympathetic new Stonehouse wing. It’s a special place with a special atmosphere, and one that is as pleasing in winter as it is in summer. Though only opened four years ago, this PIG feels as if it has been there forever, with a burgeoning Kitchen Garden, two treatment huts, a great wine cellar and fabulous food from the 25 mile menu.
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Doubles from £215
+44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com
Hotel Meudon, Falmouth
Steeped in history thanks to its association with the Fox family, who were influential in the development of Falmouth in the 19th century, this Cornish hidden gem has nine acres of unique subtropical gardens that stretch down to a private beach, Bream Cove. An unspoilt paradise, it’s ideal for swimming, snorkelling, paddleboarding or picking up the South West Coast Path to go hiking. The hotel itself is fresh from an extensive, sympathetic refurbishment: expect mid-century inspired, light-filled rooms with comfy beds, aromatic bath products and gorgeous views (choose from garden, sea or inland) from the balcony or terrace. The restaurant fully reflects its location and heritage, drawing influences from French classic haute cuisine (Meudon takes its title from the nearby farmhouses built by Napoleonic prisoners of war who were from a village of the same name in France) and seasonal dishes based around the finest, locally sourced ingredients. Ask for a table by the floor-to-ceiling windows and admire the blooms as you tuck in.
BOOK
From £279, B&B for two nights incl. a two-course dinner for two
+44 (0)1326 250541; meudon.co.uk
The Old Coastguard, Mousehole
Of Charles and Edmund Inkin’s collection of effortlessly laid-back places to stay this has the best location: overlooking the sea in the enchanting fishing village of Mousehole, noted for its artists, Christmas illuminations and invention of stargazy pie. The hotel’s 14 attractive sea-facing bedrooms have superb beds, Roberts radios, Bramley products, auction room finds and striped curtains (the best come with knockout balcony views). Downstairs in the open-plan bar and dining room, you’ll tuck into superb dishes showcasing local ingredients, from Tregassow asparagus and dressed Newlyn crab to plaice and cod caught that morning. Making the most of the vista through picture windows, the sun-filled sitting area runs the length of the ground floor. Outside, The Crab Shack, offers casual all-day dining (think crab claws, croissants and sandwiches). Dining there, peering through palm trees and agapanthus, or reclining on the sea-facing garden sun terrace, you’ll keep delaying your departure by another hour. It’s that kind of place.
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Doubles from £197.50; from £285, inc dinner, B&B
+44 (0)1736 731222; oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk
Una St Ives
Just outside St Ives in gorgeous, sandy Carbis Bay, the luxury resort of Una St Ives has a collection of wood-clad lodges and spacious, contemporary villas. Each comes with chic coastal inspired interiors, a cosy log burner for chilly evenings (lodges only), a well-equipped kitchen and a private garden or terrace with hot tub. When guests don’t feel like cooking, there’s the award-winning Una Kitchen. Led by head chef Glenn Gatland (previously at Hell Bay on the Isles of Scilly), it’s known for Mediterranean-inspired, wood-fired cooking. Stand-out dishes include Cornish sea bream with pea and lemon risotto, slow-cooked pork belly with Parmesan polenta and delicious hand-stretched pizzas. Opened in 2023, Una Lido is a relaxed and family-friendly space in which to spend your days. You’ll find the best of the lido lifestyle: laid-back tunes, snazzy poolside cocktails and street food- inspired dining. And, of course, there’s the lido itself: a 20m heated outdoor pool, where you can swim, soak and unwind. And don’t forget the spa, with its sauna, steam room and pampering Elemis treatments.
BOOK
From £375, for three nights
+44 (0)1736 257000; unastives.co.uk
The Idle Rocks - St Mawes, CornwallThe Idle Rocks, St Mawes
Perched on the rocks in the fishing village of St Mawes, this is a gorgeous coastal escape, voted the number one boutique hotel in Cornwall. It is perfectly placed to explore some of the area’s most famous landmarks, and is just a 20-minute ferry ride across the River Fal to Falmouth. The biggest of the 18 light, airy bedrooms (the Grand Seaview Rooms) have spectacular water views; others look out to boats bobbing in the harbour or the quiet, cobbled streets of St Mawes. The kitchen, led by Executive Head Chef Dorian Janmaat, has a menu is based around local produce and suppliers, so expect plenty of fresh fish. For the classic Cornish experience, don’t miss a cream tea with sparkling wine in the lounge.
BOOK
Doubles from £320
+44 (0)1326 270270; idlerocks.com
The Bodmin Jail Hotel
Looking for a boutique hotel with a bit of character? This one’s got it in spades. Perched on the outskirts of Bodmin Moor, what was once an 18th-century prison has been transformed into a gorgeous 70-bedroom hotel, with each room showcasing some incredible features including original cell doors (and even bars on the windows). The hotel is complete with an elegant restaurant, The Chapel Restaurant and Bar, which serves up seasonal dishes showcasing local Cornish produce, and there’s also the newly-opened Moor Café. If you want to delve into the building’s history, you can enjoy a fascinating guided tour – or opt for the spookier alternative and try out The Ghost Walk.
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+44 (0) 1208 822 844; bodminjailhotel.com
