Here’s How To Explore Montenegro By Boat

Montenegro is having a moment – and the best way to explore it is by boat, says Catherine Bevan.

Exploring Montenegro By Boat: Everything You Need To Know

With its beautiful coastline, soaring mountains, UNESCO-protected historic towns and five national parks, it’s no wonder Montenegro is taking a turn in the spotlight. This small, yet diverse Balkan country easily rivals its better-known neighbour Croatia, and indeed most other Mediterranean destinations, by offering more value for money with less of the summer crowds. 

Budva old town

The airlines have got in on the act by opening several new flights. EasyJet has added to its current service from Gatwick and Luton to the coastal town of Tivat, with flights from Bristol until the end of August and Jet2 began a new route from London Stansted to Tivat in April, which will run through to Montenegro’s still balmy end of October. Meanwhile, the recent arrival of luxurious five-star hotels including the Regent Porto Montenegro near Tivat, and, across the bay, Europe’s sole outpost of One&Only (Portonovi hotel), means that tour operators Kuoni, Elegant Resorts and Lusso have flagged this laid-back country as the place to go, by adding it to their books. 

The roads, however, can be slow, and the locals know that, despite being just a tiny gem of a place – it could fit into the UK over 17 times – the best way to see all that Montenegro has to offer is by boat. We decided to travel on a shared custom-built wooden sailing gulet for 12, run by a local company. Unlike the larger cruise ships and super-yachts, this elegant vessel can also access the smaller, more exclusive bays. 

Equipped with four sleek white sails, an engine for less gusty days and an expert yachting crew of four including a private chef, when not escorting its guests around Montenegro’s rugged southern coastline, we’re proudly informed that our boat the Kaptan Sevket has won many a race at the Bodrum Cup sailing regatta.

Porto Montenegro harbour

Our seven-day cruise begins at the glamorous marina of Porto Montenegro, Tivat. An easy 15-minute taxi drive from Tivat airport, it’s packed with designer shops and restaurants overlooking the water. We barely have a chance to guess which gleaming superyacht belongs to whom – Brad Pitt, Naomi Campbell and former Chelsea manager Roman Abramovich have all been spotted here – before being welcomed on board for a delicious dinner of fresh salads and locally caught seabass. 

The next morning after a good sleep in a comfortable double cabin – each of the six rooms has air conditioning and its own ensuite bathroom – we head into the Bay of Kotor. This one-mile-long inlet, often referred to as Europe’s southernmost fjord, is in fact a submerged river valley. There’s a collective gasp from all on deck as we see the towering dark mountains that seem to soar straight out of the bay’s deep and glassy waters. 

After a cooling dip, where adults and teenagers try out the boat’s paddleboards with varying degrees of success, we cruise deeper into the bay to Kotor’s Old Town. More than worthy of its UNESCO world heritage status with medieval architecture dating back to the 12th century, we discover the walled town hosts an abundance of historic churches and museums, mingled among stately Venetian palaces. We strike out along winding stone streets to find the main square, where we pick a table at one of the many al-fresco cafes to admire the surrounding palaces and sample slices of Krempita, a wonderfully light custard-filled puff pastry. 

Kotor old town

Next up, for a chance to see Montenegro through the eyes of some of history’s most glamorous stars, our boat travels out of the bay and down the Adriatic coast to Sveti Stefan, the former Sixties playground of Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren and Princess Margaret. Now a private island, we opt to view it from the water level by taking a dip, before ending the day at the sleepy fishing village of Bigova. Only accessible to smaller boats, with a population of just 114, it’s the perfect place to try the catch of the day in the village’s only restaurant Grispolis, where we’re offered a choice of tender calamari, seafood risotto or seabream. 

Anyone looking for sparkling sandy beaches and vibrant nightlife should try our next destination, Budva. The most visited spot in Montenegro and often described as a mini-Dubrovnik, this well-preserved medieval walled town was founded 2,500 years ago. We set off down the coast for a mile or so to the long swathe of Jaz beach. Neatly lined up sunbeds and golden sands stretch enticingly ahead of us, but for some true seclusion we walk to the very end to ensconce ourselves in one of the quiet coves, tucked away into the rocks.

Jaz beach

With just one day to go, the captain turns the boat for home. We have time to squeeze in a final visit and the unanimous vote is for Perast, a charming, much-photographed spot, often dubbed the Venice of the Adriatic. Once the seafaring capital of this stretch of coast, we’re greeted by a waterfront lined with elegant palazzos, built by wealthy 17th and 18th-century seamen and merchants. After taking in the view from the top of the centuries-old St Nikola church at the centre of the town, we gratefully head into the cool sanctuary of the Perast Museum in the Bujovic Palace, to learn more about the city’s long and varied past. 

Before we know it, we find ourselves anchored back at Porto Montenegro. Settling down for our last dinner on board and watching the glowing sun set behind the inky mountains, we agree that Montenegro’s diverse and wild landscape is hard to beat. Poet Lord Byron fell for Montenegro in the early 1800s and his words still ring true in our ears, ‘At the moment of the creation of our planet, the most beautiful merging of land and sea occurred at the Montenegrin seaside…’  

BOOK IT

Cruises with Gulet Cruise Montenegro start from £1,622 per person for 7 nights. guletcruisemontenegro.com

The boat has six double or twin cabins and can be shared with other guests or hired privately. Flights to Tivat, Montenegro from London Gatwick in August start from around £54 with EasyJet.

Catherine’s return flights had a carbon footprint of 742kg CO2e. ecollectivecarbon.com