We Reviewed the Best Holistic Retreats in India

By CTH Editors

4 months ago

And relax


Taken from the Indian Wellbeing Guide in the Regeneration Issue 2024, these are the finest tried and tested Ayurvedic retreats in India.

The Best Holistic Retreats in India

Bamboo Yoga Retreat, South Goa

For Om Shanti Beach Bunnies

A class at Bamboo Yoga Retreat, South Goa

One of the most wonderous locations of any beach property in Goa, possibly India. Recently relocated to the southern end of Polem beach, stylishly sparse huts and cabanas tumble out onto soft, sultry sands, framed by forest and graceful palms. Expect more than a hint of Thailand, and none of the chaos that India sometimes delivers. A well-oiled team of seasoned staff cater to your every whim and nourishing comfort is the vibe: vegetarian buffets in a dining space with blue-green waters beyond, fruit and snacks, a shop, even a bar. A small portion of partners neatly avoid the yoga, although, whilst this may not be the place for die-hards with an already strong practice, it’s the ideal hideaway for most. Real India remains but an echo (Patnem and Palolem are a 15-minute tuk-tuk ride away and happily deliver the gentle throng of tourist towns). Days kick off with morning meditation before classes of gentle Vinyasa flow. Unless the powerhouse that is Judith is leading, and then asanas are cranked up to full throttle, everyone challenged to the max, whilst still feeling held by her expertise. No wonder she has such a firm following. Afternoon classes are blissful Yin or Yoga Nidra. It’s hard not to fall under the spell as you listen to the roll and thunder of the waves, and the siren screech of a lone fish eagle keeping a watchful eye on this tiny corner of paradise below. Tanya Dalton

Book It: From €570 for five nights per person. bamboo-yoga-retreat.com

Purple Valley Yoga, North Goa

For dedicated ever-evolving yogis

Purple Valley Yoga, North Goa

A very specific language of yoga, Mysore Ashtanga has a cult-like following, and while all are welcome at this shoes-off commune, to attend one of the back-to-back retreats really deserves a decent foundational knowledge of the primary series. Offering intense retreats throughout the season and a little into the monsoon, an insider crew share a hunger to push their technique to the max. Many of the staff are keen, well-honed yogis and nearly all join in the daily practice. Fall in line with an unwavering focus. The shala is decked with flickering oil lamps and Hindu deities dressed in fragrant garlands of marigolds. The sense of togetherness begins as, one by one, the students unfurl their mats, find their drishti and join in the sonorous chanting. Send good vibrations out into the dawning of the day, which often also begins with the bark of the dog and the honk of the horn, letting you know India is still close at hand. Hearty nourishing food ensures you feel supported throughout your stay and the two-hour, daily workshops offer insights that will see you scribbling away and improving postures you thought you had nailed. Everything radiates and resonates around the yoga which will actively change you inside and out. Tanya Dalton

Book It: From £600 per week, per person (single occupancy), all inclusive. yogagoa.com

The Leela Kovalam, a Raviz Hotel, Kerala

For Ayurvedic beginners

The Leela Kovalam, a Raviz Hotel, Kerala

This tranquil Keralan clifftop hideaway, overlooking the Arabian Sea, opened in summer 2022. However, it is already making waves with its show-stopping 8,000 sq/ft Ayurveda centre complete with a yoga pavilion and three pools. Kerala is known for Ayurveda, and Leela does it justice, with deeply intuitive therapists rolling out a combination of hard-hitting treatments and top-to-toe pampering. The Panchakarma, an all-out purge, will leave you squeaky clean inside and out or tackle fat with Udvartana, a dry massage with herbal powders. The crescent beaches, ringed by coconut palms, will lull you into further relaxation. Breathe in the salty breeze and go for a ramble, surf, kayak or paddle board. Visit the gloriously restored Halcyon Castle on site, once a summer retreat of the royal family of Travancore, before cooling off in one of the infinity pools. The 188 beautifully designed rooms up the rejuvenating environment (book the Ocean View Suite with its large private patio) and don’t miss the just-caught seafood in the abundance of restaurants, with produce plucked from the sprawling organic veg garden. Just make sure to stop and take in the breathtaking sunset – particularly special in God’s Own Country. Harriet Compston

Book It: From £240 per night. theleela.com/the-leela-kovalam-a-raviz-hotel

Shakti Himalaya, Ladakh

For an authentic mountain high

Buddhist Monks at Thiksey Monastery

It’s easy to overlook India in the summer with its scorching 40-degree temperatures. But Ladakh, in the far north with its cool climes, gives you the perfect excuse to visit. A Buddhist kingdom, otherwise known as ‘Little Tibet’, it’s a spectacular picture of stark jagged mountains, pristine turquoise lakes and crystal-clear skies. Shakti Ladakh shows you the best of this isolated region, taking you off the beaten track, with stays in a clutch of six village houses mingled with mountain adventures. In May 2024, this inspired outfit unveiled its latest addition: Thiksey House. Set opposite mesmerising Thiksey Monastery, there are four cosy ensuite bedrooms, all with a hint of luxury but still authentic. Lovely local hosts are on hand for anything you need. During the day, enjoy a deep dive into rural Ladakh life, from exploring ancient monasteries and sacred shrines to tackling beautiful treks through the valley. There’s even the chance to learn all about your future from a local oracle. Go in July and you might catch the Ladakh Polo Festival. Food is not forgotten. Picnic in style amongst the riverbank’s willow groves, and, in the evening, take time out to admire the brightest stars you’ve ever seen. Then tuck into absolutely delicious homemade Ladakhi food, made from generations-old recipes and cooked using local ingredients in a small wood-burning stove. Magical. Harriet Compston

Book It: From £5,677 for seven nights, including accommodation, meals, activities, guides. shaktihimalaya.com

Atmantan, Maharashtra

For escapee urbanites

A four-hour drive from Mumbai, this 42-acre property near Pune overlooks Mulshi Lake. The design is a little hard-edged, a lot of grey and black stone and brightly coloured furnishings, but it’s the softness of both fellow guests and staff that will win you over. The promise is transformation. As 82-year-old guest Vanita puts it, ‘We all need to make changes when our lives go in a direction that we don’t want to take’. From mini rejuvenation breaks to those on two-week detoxes or a 32-night stay to deal with chronic back pain, everyone is set on living better. The restaurant looking out onto the lake remains the beating heart. Food is proudly SLOW: sustainable, local, organic and wholesome. No use of ‘the three devils’ (white flour, sugar, salt). For breakfast, a papaya and date smoothie, followed by masala oats, finished with a sweet potato galette. Days start at 6.30am in the Kriya Pavilion, where staff guide you through traditional Ayurvedic cleanses: a neti pot to clear the sinuses, followed by a throat gargle and eye wash. Next comes yoga on the terrace. Treatments include a mix of traditional Ayurveda with the likes of Chi Nei Tsang, acupuncture or life coaching. As Robert from LA says: ‘What this place has made me realise is that I can operate from a greater place of serenity. We can all lead with love.’ Daisy Finer

Book It: From £999pp for three nights, including accommodation, meals and daily activities. atmantan.com

Neeleshwar Hermitage, Kerala

For traditionalists with a wild side

This restorative hideaway on North Kerala’s untrammelled coast is unashamedly focused on one aim: to offer guests a ‘200 percent experience’. And the great thing is that ebullient owner Altaf Chapri and his team nail it. This eco retreat is the perfect place to get away from it all – particularly with the hotel’s Lotus houseboat which chugs its way along Kerala’s serene backwaters. Back on dry land, Neeleshwar is incredibly spoiling. It’s not super luxury but that doesn’t matter, you’ll simply be seduced by the sublime stillness. Modelled on traditional fisherman’s huts, there are 18 thatched cottages – all handmade wooden furniture, antiques, teak floors – tucked away among acres of verdant gardens, which brim with hibiscus flowers, frangipani and banana trees. Some have private pools, others captivate with stunning sea or garden views. Each is named after a yogic virtue and sets the scene for the small but perfectly formed spa, with traditional Ayurvedic treatments, meditation and complimentary Hatha yoga. Cycle the roads and soak up local life before choosing between the two excellent restaurants. Open-sided Annapurna serves mainly Ayurvedic-inspired vegetarian plates, but lunch at toes-in-the-sand Meenakshi is a must for its just-caught fish – it’ll lull you into a further state of happiness. Harriet Compston

Book It: £150 B&B. neeleshwarhermitage.com

Six Senses Fort Barwara, Rajasthan

For tiger-spotting spa queens

Six Senses Fort Barwara, Rajasthan

The Six Senses remit in India also includes this reimagined 14th-century frescoed fort in the arid Rajasthani desert. The level of luxury and service is superlative. In fact, this 48-suite hotel really takes things to the next level. Toilets with heated seats automatically flush themselves. For some, it’s all a little OTT, though, demanding travellers do seem to flock here. The hotel opened amidst much fanfare for a Bollywood wedding, which set a template that has yet to be adjusted for a more subtle market. The approach to sustainability is also a little Disney, with local women in saris brewing chai and potters with wheels squatting by the swimming pool. There is a fine line between integrated community work and a sense of voyeuristic display. More authentic is the spa, with gorgeous Ayurvedic pro Dr Neeru Jain, who will read both your pulse and mind, and recommend therapies. Have you ever been massaged with heated tiger’s eye? This powerful stone is said to release anxiety and is used in a 90-minute spa treatment that includes writing down the emotions you want to release, breathwork, visualisations and sound healing. There are tigers, too, just 45 minutes away,
with two game drives a day. A leading spa and safari combo. Daisy Finer

Book It: From £621 B&B based on two sharing. sixsenses.com

Taj Rishikesh, Uttarakhand

For high-end hippies

This hotel puts a new spin on luxurious spirituality. Even children are invited with dedicated pools and a play area. The  sharp design, using only local materials and blissfully at-one with the surroundings, is more reminiscent of an Aman hotel than traditional Taj outposts. Be warned, there are some steep climbs for those that don’t want to buggy-it. The J Wellness Circle spa is remarkably comprehensive, offering one-to-one yoga sessions which cover the full spectrum –asanas, pranayama, mudra, bandha – as well as consultations with Ayurvedic doctors, body rituals and beautifications. Yoga and meditation take place in a domed pavilion with the splendour of the Himalayas right on the doorstep. The absolute highlight, though, is the privacy, peace and sheer privilege of enjoying the pure waters of the Ganges gushing right past the hotel. It’s a far cry from the hectic holiness of nearby Rishikesh, about an hour’s drive away. Sound healings on the riverbank are beautifully profound, so too is a personal ‘Homam’, a sacred Vedic fire ritual in which the presence of deity is invoked by mantras. Every evening the hotel also hosts an exquisite purifying Ganga Aarti solely for guests: conch shells, ghee, fires, puja blessings and singing – a symbolic and sacred occasion you won’t easily forget. Daisy Finer

Book It: From £340 for a superior room. tajhotels.com

SwaSwara, Karnataka

For swimming under a mango moon

SwaSwara

This rustic hideaway is a short amble from the beauty that is Gokarna’s Om Beach. Shaped like the sacred Hindu word ‘Om’ with two glorious coves, swimming in the ocean as the sun sets feels healing in itself. Though don’t expect privacy, sunbeds or beach service. The scene is akin to Goa 30 years ago: a few beachside shacks, holy cows and fishermen’s boats. Afterwards, retreat to one of the 24 cottages with upstairs seating areas, open-air bathrooms and doors that open onto dragonflies darting over a water reserve. There’s an outstanding pool – one of the best in India – to while away some hours, and an Ayurvedic spa which you can dip into as you see fit. The doctors are not the most invested (so maybe avoid embarking on the likes of Panchakarma), but the treatments themselves are a delight, blending the traditional with the westernised. Abhyanga massages alleviate fatigue while scrubs use sea salts, spices and aroma oils to leave skin glowy. Dosha-based menus for those on a curative programme are wholesome if sometimes a tad bland. For breakfast perhaps oat porridge sweetened with jaggery. For lunch and dinner, soups followed by the likes of vegetable korma with beetroot gojju and red rice. Whilst the whole place could be jazzed up, SwaSwara’s appeal rests in its soporific atmosphere. You’ll feel wrapped in gentle vibrations as soon as you arrive. A special spot. Daisy Finer

Book it: From £871 for five nights. cghearth.com/swaswara

Ashiyana Retreat, North Goa

For the soul sisters

Ashiyana Retreat, North Goa

Lily ponds, swimming pools, a resting marble Buddha and the nearby untouched beaches of North Goa, including Mandrem, home to some of India’s finest surf: Ashiyana’s Goan outpost has it nailed. Part Moroccan, part Indian, and all yoga with a smattering of sound healing, jaunts to weekend night markets and spa treatments. No wonder guests (usually single women) carry knowing smiles, either returning or visiting on the word of a trusted friend. From gentle Hatha style through to dynamite Ashtanga with a hint of Vinyasa, twice daily yoga classes are varied and inclusive. Days slip by in a dreamy haze of stretching, beach walks, new awakenings, old aches of the bones – or of the heart – all gently soothed by the magic this place holds. Accommodation is a varied tumble of bamboo huts, tree houses, pretty rooms and lavish suites, all nomad chic and atmospheric. Lap up the endless hot, honeyed lemon water and masala chai, and feast on plentiful vegetarian meals held around a long communal table. Man-at-the-helm Brandon genuinely cares about each individual’s path, not just their flight connection. Harmonious and happy making, this is a true find and one to cherish. Tanya Dalton

Book It: From €973 per week in an Eco Lodge, all-inclusive. Open 1 Oct to 15 May. ashiyana.com

The Imperial, Delhi

City icon

The Imperial hotel pool aerial view

One of India’s Grande Dames. The Imperial opened in 1936 as the first hotel in New Delhi and its old-world charm, beautiful gardens and exquisite spa continue to provide a refuge in the capital. Few city spas are as atmospheric. Expect a secret realm of candles, scents, poetry and pools, all overseen by an invincible female team dedicated to supporting the traveller’s transition with warmth, integrity and humour. ‘Once the spiritual approach to life is in place everything else falls into place. We talk about organic food but your thoughts have to be organic too,’ shares spa manager Sweety. A lifestyle consultation with gorgeous Doctor Sheema will reap snippets of advice that you will take home with you, as well as directing you to the best therapies for your dosha. If Ayurveda is not your thing, the spa also offers bespoke massages to suit the mood of the moment; oils range from black pepper, ginger, rouse and oud through to delicate Kashmiri nargis. The yoga teachers are equally exceptional and a new dedicated ‘Yoga Sanctum’, with a living wall of plants, provides the ideal space to practice. The Imperial matters, and with a tight and loving team at the helm, its future has never looked better. Goodbye colonial vestige, hello whole new era. Daisy Finer

Book It: £144 per night. theimperialindia.com

The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai

Gateway of India

The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Mumbai

The penultimate place to stay in Mumbai, located bang opposite the Gateway of India in the beating heart of Colaba. ‘The Taj’, as it is simply known, is just as much a landmark as its namesake in Agra and, in its own way, just as beautiful. In fact, the hotel has never looked better or felt buzzier (just be sure to stay in the heritage wing, not the tower). To sit in the breezy courtyard beside the pool, perhaps under your own gazebo with a jazzy Caesar salad and coconut water, is to know that there is nowhere else in the city you would rather be right now. Ahh, but that’s before you discover the new ‘J Wellness Circle’ spa. The menu includes all the usual Ayurvedic suspects but distinguishes itself with surprises like the city’s first magnesium-rich flotation pool, as well as stand out Hamman treatments. Don’t miss the hotel’s Ayurvedic thread, even though it takes place in the older spa location near the gym, it’s a gem. A massage with Rejitha is next-level and will unravel the tightest of shoulders. Be sure to mainline the signature ‘Vishuddi Chai’, an uplifting nectar of fresh lemon juice, holy basil leaves and organic jaggery. Divine. Daisy Finer

Book It: From £191 per night. tajhotels.com