Hotel San Régis: The Paris Hotel With A Haute Couture Legacy – Review

Alexandra Zagalsky checks into the five-star Hotel San Régis in Paris.

Review: Hotel San Régis, Paris

Christian Dior once remarked that ‘individuality will always be one of the conditions of real elegance,’ and if anywhere gets this recipe right, it’s the San Régis hotel, where old world glamour meets the spirit of a new generation. Not to be confused with the St Regis luxury resort group, this is an independent 5-star boutique residence, run by stylish sisters Sarah and Zeina Georges, who took the reins from their father in 2017. Originally established as a hotel in 1823, the San Régis has a compelling backstory linked to Mr Dior himself, whose first boutique was founded a few steps away at 30 Avenue Montaigne, now a gleaming Dior flagship-museum-restaurant designed by uber-architect Peter Marino. 

Since the Golden Age of haute couture, a steady stream of VIPs have checked into the San Régis, which has 30 rooms and 12 suites, and presents as a stately Haussmann-era mansion on a quiet street in the heart of the city’s prestigious shopping and cultural district known as the Golden Triangle, which encompasses Les Champs-Elysée, Avenue Montaigne and Avenue George V. Movie icons Romy Schneider and Gene Kelly were regular guests, as were photographers Richard Avedon and Robert Doisneau. Lauren Bacall is known to have stayed at the Ritz, but she also frequented the San Régis. In fact, the actress was a great admirer of Dior designer Marc Bohan, who helmed the house between 1960 to 1988 – so the hotel, with its proximity to his design studio originally set in the basement of the boutique, became a chic retreat for the sultry star during many visits to Paris. 

But the Dior connection runs deeper than this: it was in her San Régis suite that Carmel Snow, Editor-in-Chief of Harper’s Bazaar, coined a term which marked a turning point in fashion history. ‘Dear Christian, your dresses have such a new look!’ she exclaimed over the phone to the designer after seeing his seminal 1847 ‘ Corolle’ collection. From then on, Dior’s revolutionary New Look, characterised by cinched-in waists and full, calf-length skirts, came to symbolise a renewed sense of optimism in post-war Europe and a modern age full of joie de vivre. 

The San Régis briefly describes its fashion legacy on its website, but like all timeless beauties, it has mastered the art of demure sophistication by remaining relatively under the radar, as a secret bolthole for those in the know. The famous ‘Carmen Snow’ suite, complete with bijou terrace that offers Insta-perfect views of the Eiffel Tower, is not the only space that tells a story; the San Régis is full of surprises.

The first is the period furniture: rosewood writing desks, ornate giltwood mirrors, bronze figural lamps, crystal chandeliers and chinoiserie vases are part of an eclectic mix found in every suite and bedroom, belonging to an extended arts and craft timeline that encompasses Regence, Louis XVI, Restoration and Second Empire styles. All were once part of a collection belonging to early 20th century French entrepreneur Simon André Terrail, who founded the San Régis, but  is better known for establishing Paris’ historic rooftop restaurant La Tour D’Argent, He also bought and sold the George V hotel, where these antiques were first displayed, which adds a certain mystique to their provenance.

Another standout feature is the hotel’s 19th century winding staircase, illuminated by an original stained-glass window depicting plump grapes and leafy vines that cast their glowing warmth onto the cool stonework of the steps, an architectural detail that captures the wider aesthetic profile of this hotel, since the sisters are people of precision with exacting standards. Indeed, there’s a light and airy crispness to interiors that evokes easy comfort with a twist of modern decadence. The inclusion of so many antiques never appears fusty, but is instead a well curated exercise in sleek, chintz-free interior styling with unique and well-thought-out elements in every corner. 

Which brings us on to patterns, for this really is a miniature palace dedicated to them with sofas, chairs and walls swathed in sumptuous tactile fabrics by the likes of Braquenié, Pierre Frey and Manuel Canovas. Bedrooms feature sink-in velvet sofas and high king-size beds covered in luxurious linens and topped with silk and cotton damask bedspreads. 

Windows are framed by draped curtains crafted from heavy brocade fabric with tiebacks secured with golden buttons and finessed with oversized tassels. Feature walls are especially opulent, with decorative prints festooned with giant exotic flowerheads, dripping with delicate bells and green leaves, or packed with golden palm trees. Some are covered in charming custom-made toile de Jouy scenes. ‘The fabrics are all different from room to room, which makes our work quite difficult,’ reveals Zeina Georges. ‘We keep them looking perfect. Sometimes they can’t be replaced because they are no longer produced, so the room will be completely redecorated in a different style. This makes us very different from most hotels. It is an extra special detail, I think.’

Bathrooms are, by contrast, ultra-minimalist, and almost entirely clad in cool grey-veined Calacatta marble with double sinks and deep tubs. ‘The bathrooms lend a contemporary touch to our hotel. We especially like open book marble for the beautiful patterns this cut creates, like abstract works of art,’ explains Zeina.

 The hotel’s dining room, which doubles as a breakfast area, is nestled beneath a glass roof and designed in the style of a winter garden, with living plant walls. Given the exoticism of the fabrics, you half expect to see a brilliantly plumed bird perched on a branch or a tortoise rooting around in the foliage, but unusual life forms are strictly succulents. In fact, the San Regis does not allow dogs which stands to reason given the number of rare collectibles on show. 

‘It is not enough to have good food and good service in this neighbourhood, with so many luxury options; we offer this and more in the form of inventive, seasonal menus that bring a sense of adventure to the dining experience,’ says Zeina. A big draw is the hotel’s ‘French gouter’ or ‘snack time’ menu conceived by Jessica Prealpato, recognised as one of the world’s most talented pastry chefs, who previously worked with Alain Ducasse in his three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the Plaza Athénée. Her delicate gourmet delights are made without refined sugars, by extracting the natural sweetness and flavours from organic fruits and honey. The summertime tarte au fraises is a wonder: the perfect balance of textures and flavours – creamy, biscuity and juicy – that somehow leaves you with a sense of wellbeing. This clean and wholesome cuisine continues through the day thanks to chef Michele Fanciullo, who trained under Michelin-starred David Bizet. His signature dishes include lobster ravioli with Jerusalem artichoke, black truffle risotto, and medallions of milk fed veal with chanterelle mushrooms, all artfully presented with the flair befitting of a man who previously cooked at the George V. 

Clearly, this is a family business run with sharp agency and studied attentiveness, so that everything feels seamlessly luxurious and indulgent. In a city that recorded 47.5 million visits last year, this dedication to detail really is ‘extra special’. 

BOOK IT

Doubles start at £500 per night, including breakfast. hotel-sanregis.fr