Exploring the Gastronomic Delights of Norway with Hurtigruten

By Felicity Carter

1 day ago

Fjord-to-table cuisine with Norway's Coastal Kitchen


Take in the awe-inspiring scenery of Norway thanks to Hurtigruten, and its original route that traces its rugged coastline.

Review: Hurtigruten’s Coastal Express Voyage, Norway

A firm fixture of the Norwegian waters, Hurtigruten has been operating along this coastline since 1893 and has become fully embedded in its culture; made up of 10 ships, these not only move tourists but local passengers and cargo often to small, hard-to-reach ports, and so, the ships have become a lifeline for many.

Central to Hurtigruten’s purpose is mindful and responsible travel, showcasing and preserving the natural beauty of the region, while supporting local suppliers along the way. This can be seen via its original and perhaps most well known route, from Bergen to Kirkenes, where there are 34 unique ports, offering a chance to discover fjords, mountains, remote islands and UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Hedda Felin, Hurtigruten’s CEO says: ‘The Norwegian coast has been our home for over 130 years, so we understand how important it is to look after it. Hurtigruten has long led the way in pioneering more sustainable travel initiatives, from banning heavy fuel oil in 2009 to removing single-use plastics in 2018, and even launching a groundbreaking food waste initiative in Stamsund last year.’

On board, Norway’s Coastal Kitchen champions local produce and suppliers, as well as traditional cooking techniques, giving back to local artisans, fishing communities, and farming families. ‘We proudly work with over 70 local suppliers to source 80 percent of our on board food along the coast during high season, celebrating the best of Norwegian produce,’ Hedda continues.

Hurtigruten ship sailing in the Norwegian fjords

STAY

All aboard MS Richard With (this ship is named after the company’s founder). With sustainability at the heart of Hurtigruten, MS Richard With was upgraded to a greener hybrid ship in 2022, and as such emissions have been cut, thanks to the large battery packs combined with the ships’ new, efficient engines that reduce fuel consumption and CO2-emissions by approximately 25 percent. The ship has also been updated with state-of-the-art navigation and control equipment, new wastewater treatment equipment, and SRC technology that reduce NOx emissions by at least 80 percent.

Your home at sea for the 12-day trip, the ship is made up of several accommodation and suite types that don a Scandinavian design, with 458 beds in total. This includes the Expedition Suites, which are the most luxurious cabins on board; situated on the upper deck of the ship, these feature double beds, seating areas with a TV, and larger bathrooms. There are also the comfortable Arctic Superiors that can be found on both the upper and middle decks, and these sit alongside the Polar Inside and Polar Outside that offers views of the Norway coastline; the cabins vary in size, from 54 sq. ft for the interior options to 236 sq. ft for the mini suites.

DO

The route traces the coastline of Bergen then onto Kirkenes, and back to Bergen, so whether it’s a sea or an exploration day, there’s plenty to see, do and experience on and off MS Richard With. 

With 34 ports of call, the voyage starts at the second-largest city in Norway and gateway to the fjords, Bergen, which is also home to the UNESCO-listed wharfs and the Fløibanen funicular that takes you up to the top of Mount Fløyen for views of the city.

Then onto Trondheim, the country’s third largest city, home to Nidaros Cathedral known as ‘Norway’s Notre Dame’ and by day four it’s up to Bodo, where the Arctic Circle is crossed and of course, that calls for a traditional ceremony filled with ice. Above the Arctic Circle, it is possible to see the sun 24 hours a day in summer, while in winter, it’s the place to spot the Northern Lights. Other highlights along the coastline include the solemn Witches’ Monument and Vardøhus Fortress of Kirkeness, plus the UNESCO-listed Meridian Column found at Hammerfest, and the archipelagos of Lofoten and Vesterålen that showcase the very best of Norway.

On board, there are a range of facilities, including the Explorer Lounge & Bar, where guests can enjoy curated cocktails using locally sourced spirits. Be sure to look for whisky from the AuroraSpirit Distillery: it’s the world’s northernmost spirit distillery and incorporates water from ancient Arctic glaciers, as well as gin and aquavit from Feddie Ocean Distillery. Alternatively, try a local beer from Mack Brewery – dating to 1877 it’s also the northernmost brewery in the world. To wind down, relax in the sauna or in the outdoor hot tubs, or head to the fitness room for a workout. 

There is also a chance to learn about Norway, its landscape, and the Northern Lights with a series of daily lectures, and if you’re lucky enough you’ll catch Tom Kerrs, astronomer and the world’s first Chief Aurora Chaser imparting his knowledge on all things aurora borealis. 

A ship sailing in the sea

EAT

Norway’s Coastal Kitchen, as you’d expect, showcases the very best of Norway’s gastronomy with traditional dishes that makes use of seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Hurtigruten is proud to champion Norwegian suppliers too, trading with 50 farms, fisheries, bakeries, butchers, cheesemakers, distilleries, and ice-cream innovators. 

Reflecting this love for dining and local cuisine, each of the restaurants is named after an aspect of its coast, and typically have floor-to-ceiling windows so guests can enjoy views while dining, creating a connection to the places where the ingredients are sourced. The main restaurant, Torget, is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Here, there’s a selection of Scandinavian and Norwegian specialties, from vodka gravlax and traditional fish soup with Bergen root vegetables and sour cream to Hellesylt salted leg of lamb and lightly cured and baked arctic char.

Seafood with bread

For fine dining there is Kysten, the à la carte restaurant that focuses on Arctic produce, cue seaweed, reindeer with local butter and wild herbs, fresh seafood such as giant crabs, shrimp, and salmon, and local award-winning cheeses, including Nidelven Blå, which was named the World’s Best Cheese, and the multi-award winning Kraftkar blue cheese.

There’s also a bistro, Brygga which translates to ‘wharf’ – this casual eatery serves salads, sandwiches (the shrimp sandwich is a Norwegian classic), and comfort food like pizzas and burgers.

Finally, the Multe, which means ‘cloudberry’ in Norwegian, is a bakery that offers fresh pastries, cakes, and open sandwiches called smørbrød. Here, you’ll also find signature waffles and local ice cream from Lofoten – there’s a host of classic and Norwegian-inspired flavours, such as brunostvv (brown cheese). Just add a dollop of cloudberry jam for the full experience.

Fish and chips on board a ship

Gastronomic excursions are also thoroughly delicious, with trips to remote fine dining restaurant, Kvitnes Gård that’s headed up by Hurtigruten’s Culinary Ambassador Halvar Ellingse. He focuses on traditional Nordic cooking techniques (such as preservation methods) and combines this with homegrown ingredients – Kvitnes Gård harvests almost all the menu’s ingredients on its farm or in its immediate vicinity.

Learn all about the benefits of kelp thanks to the founders of Lofoten Seaweed, Angelita Eriksen and Tamara Singer, who are committed to introducing seaweed into the Nordic diet. Plus, there’s a chance to dine with Åshild Jacobsen and Gisle Melhus at their farm, Myklevik Gård, which is just outside Stamsund in the Lofoten Islands. They’re also a Hurtigruten partner, working together on a sustainability initiative that sees a specially designed compost reactors turn leftover food from the ships into fertiliser within 24 hours, which is then used on the farm, ultimately reducing food waste to zero. 

FINAL WORD

On this Hurtigruten voyage, guests not only see and explore the Norwegian coast, but they get to savour it too. A gastronomic treat for the F&B connoisseurs, expect farm-and-fjord-to-table flavours all while championing homegrown talent, ingredients, and suppliers. The flavours are aplenty too, with unique tastes such as the sea-aged, sparkling wine that’s created exclusively to serve on ship, to the world’s best cheese hailing from Norway, and local craft beers; and if you’re lucky, you may just see the Northern Lights while you’re at it.

BOOK IT:

The 12-day Coastal Express voyage starts from £1,322 per person. It sails from Bergen – Kirkenes – Bergen with 34 ports of call along the coast of Norway. hurtigruten.com