Countryside Wine Escape: Locanda La Raia, Gavi – Review

You might have heard of Gavi. You might even have drunk the area’s delicious crisp, floral white wine. But chances you haven’t been there or even know where it is. Well, it’s roughly equidistant from both Genoa and Milan – luckily well beyond the sprawling suburbs of both cities – in the Piedmont region of northern Italy. Lush and green, it’s an area devoted to wine making, and perfect for a short break or maybe to add on to a Milan visit as a pastoral contrast to the frenetic city. If you’re a wine lover, there’s no better place to stay than the Locanda La Raia.

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Hotel Review: Locanda La Raia, Gavi

STAY

Set in over 400 acres of gently undulating land, with 120 acres devoted to vines, the biodynamic estate, beautifully tranquil and family run, is the passion project of management consultant and former McKinsey partner Giorgio Rossi Cairo, who bought it over 20 years ago. The olive green Locanda itself – around a 90 minute drive from Milan Linate airport – set on high ground, opened in 2017, on the site of a former inn.

There are only 10 rooms and two apartments, all sizeable and very comfortable, with beamed ceilings and power showers in the bathrooms (there is one room with a tub). The décor is a mixture of modern and traditional, with muted hues livened up by colourful sofas and wallpaper. There are plenty of stylish touches too, such as an alabaster box for the tissues in the bathroom, and leather ones for those on the bedside tables. And the large windows help to connect you to the countryside.

There’s a mini bar with free soft drinks, but no room service or coffee machine. Instead you’ll find teas and coffee (instant), water and biscuits on a table on the first floor landing, by most of the rooms. The idea is, according to Giorgio Rossi Cairo, ‘to give the feeling of a house rather than a hotel.’ In the same spirit, there is an honour bar in the lounge downstairs – and the small staff team is warm and welcoming. Not surprisingly, with the hotel’s bucolic setting and relaxed atmosphere, it’s a favourite for weddings, when it’s possible take over the whole Locanda.

Outdoors, there’s a terrace to relax on and, at a level below the hotel, a heated pool (indoors and out) with loungers and sun umbrellas from which you can see the vineyard and distant hills. You can order drinks at both. There’s also a small, well equipped gym and a treatment room with a sauna and a Turkish bath.

EAT

Food and its provenance is important at the Locanda, and chef Tommaso Arrigoni has won a Michelin star for his cooking: seasonal dishes strongly influenced by both Ligurian and Piedmontese traditions, but elevated by his flair and presentation. The vegetables are from the estate, and the herbs are from the garden in front of the hotel; other ingredients are either from the estate or small local producers. The restaurant is closed for lunch (and Wednesday evenings) apart from weekends, but you can get a light meal or snack during the week. The same room is used for an extensive buffet breakfast where the estate’s eggs and honey are served.

Wine, of course, is the whole raison d’etre of the estate, and there are wine pairing options at dinner. The La Raia estate produces six types of wine: three whites, including Gavi Pisé and Gavi Riserva Vigna della Madonna – all made from characteristic Cortese grapes; and three reds including Piemonte Barbera and Piemonte Pinot Noir. But the family also owns Tenuta Cucco in Serralunga d’Alba, where they produce Barolo reds and other wines, also available at the hotel. The wines of both estates, as well as other products (including honey) are available at the La Raia shop.

For a taste closer to home, La Raia’s classic Gavi – great with seafood – is sold at King Charles’ Highgrove shop.

DO

There are several walks on the estate, including one through the vineyards, and past a small lake (you can ask for a picnic to take with you, if you like). And you can also walk to the winery which produces 300,000 bottles a year and, in keeping with La Raia’s commitment to sustainability, is solar powered and partly built with the traditional pisé method using rammed earth from the estate. You can take a tour and have a tasting (€30 for five wines and €50 for a light lunch as well).

Remarkably, the estate’s landscape is dotted with large contemporary art works, thanks to the Rossi Cairo family’s award-winning Fondazione La Raia – and you can follow a walking route to see all of them.

The hotel team can also help with other activities in the area, including golf, riding, running and local attractions.

THE FINAL WORD

Locanda La Raia is perfect for a relaxed two or three days, with top quality food, on a lovely estate which you can explore at leisure. And you can learn about some of the best Gavi wines around.

BOOK IT

Double rooms with breakfast at the Locanda La Raia start from £337 per night. You can take over the whole hotel for around £7,600 per night. The hotel is closed from the end of November to the end of March. casas-latinas.com

Anwer was travelling in Italy when this review was conducted.