Heaven Is An Eco Wine Resort On The Slopes Of Mount Etna

You had me at ‘wine resort’… Monaci delle Terre Nere (translating to ‘monks of the black earth’) is an eco enclave perched on the slopes of Sicily’s majestic mount Etna, specialising in wine but growing a bounty of fruits, vegetables and herbs across its 25 hectares. Amid this abundant natural beauty, find restored farmhouses, ancient villas and oases of swimming pools, all scattered across the rich land.

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Hotel Review: Monaci delle Terre Nere, Sicily

Start as you mean to go on: the approach to Monaci delle Terre Nere is emphatically green. Vineyards, olive groves, orange trees and cypress trees all spring up in copious amounts as our car rolls over the gently sloping land. On arrival, the dusky pink main 19th century villa comes into view – just one of many gorgeous sights we are set to see, but certainly the largest of the buildings. We will return later for breakfast, dinner and drinks on the spacious, tree-filled terrace – a hub of activity all day long.

We are met at the car by the beaming guest experience manager, who swiftly arranges for our luggage to be whisked off to our home-from-home via golf buggy, while we are treated to a welcome glass with a view of the pool. As we sip our wine – our first, but far from our last, glass of the fruits of Monaci’s vineyards – we gaze across the seemingly infinite greenery, the gently swaying water of the swimming pool, leafy vineyards rolling down the hill, and a slice of the Ionian sea clear on the horizon before it blends with the azure sky. The tranquillity is immediate.

Dating back to the 18th century, Monaci gets its name from the monks who used to live here: Monks of the Order of the Barefoot Augustinians of Valverde, who built a small chapel on the property and spent most of their time cultivating the land, planting fruit trees and shaping the sharp slopes with vineyard terraces. The property changed hands over the centuries before it was purchased by Guido Coffa in 2009 – and thus began Monaci’s journey to the low-key eco-retreat we find today. Indeed, Monaci is one of only three Eco-Bio certified properties in Sicily, and beady eyed guests will spot the on-site banks of solar panels that provide most of the electricity.

Villa Nobile

After a few years of restoration, Monaci opened as a hotel in 2012, and some of its first staff members remain today. Today part of Relais & Chateaux but still family-owned, Monaci remains a 62 acre working farm, featuring vineyards, orchards, a chicken coop (for eggs), a butterfly filled herb garden and more. It is under Guido’s name that the aforementioned wine is bottled and sold – mineraly, crisp, and readily available on site, whether for an ad hoc glass or a dedicated wine tasting session. Farmhands rise early to water the crops. In your bedroom, sink your teeth into fresh apples and oranges gathered from the estate, delivered fresh each day.

Embracing slow living, at breakfast, lunch and dinner, sample more fruits of the land you tread across. All are eaten in different locations: a bio-organic, farm-style breakfast on a shady terrace high up in the trees, with a real bounty of a buffet to graze; lunch by the pool with salads, sandwiches and burgers; and dinner at Locanda Nerello in the main house and on its wrap-around terrace. With an almost zero mile menu thanks to such an abundant on-site farm, seasonal ingredients not sourced from Monaci itself are gleaned from select local suppliers, here cooked up by executive chef Salvo Sardo and his team into mouth watering Sicilian dishes, from exquisitely creative antipastos to indulgent handmade pastas to delicate fishes and meats. Authenticity is paramount, with dishes striving to preserve ancient ingredients and recipes from this storied island – yet they’re presented with contemporary flair characteristic of top restaurants. Enjoy bread crafted with ancient grains cultivated on site, but the most moreish morsel of authenticity is vincotto, a rich cooked wine. Dunk hunks of bread into olive oil and vincotto as you would balsamic – and try to resist the whole loaf. To finish, don’t miss the playful Etna-misu: a volcano shaped tiramisu with berry jus lava.

Convivium bar

Downstairs, find an uber-cool bar, Convivium, which feels subterranean in its concrete earthiness, yet boasts soaring ceilings. Perfect for a nightcap, or a drink to start the evening, enjoy Guido’s wine or a selection of cocktails alongside bar snacks from low sofas, all immersed in modernist surroundings.

As abundant as the fresh produce are the friendly staff, all memorising your face, room number and coffee order after just one interaction. At the drop of a hat, they’ll hop aboard one of the many golf carts, ready to whisk you back home after a meal at the main house or a dip in the pool. Monaci is made up of just 24 rooms, suites and villas scattered across the mammoth estate (and I really do mean scattered – some are best accessed by golf buggy rather than hike), a mixture of old buildings restored with new roofs, ceilings painted with ancient-style frescos to retain the atmosphere; and new modernist marvels, some crafted with volcanic rock exteriors, others concrete creations boasting huge windows gazing out over the estate. It feels somewhat like an enclave: running into the same people at breakfast, dinner and by the pool, learning the staff’s names and faces quick as a flash. The result is an immediate sense of calm, of homeliness, of welcoming.

Vivace, the bedroom we stayed in

Inside, bedrooms artfully blend history with modernism: transparent glass sink basins tucked in an old animal shelter, wooden beams offsetting a minimalist white bed frame, all brightened up with vibrant reclaimed textiles and upcycled salvaged furniture. The artfulness continues: each bed is headed by an artefact saved from the original estate, while modern art sits in dialogue with the storied space. In our bedroom, I’m mesmerised by a simple blue collaged modernist painting; in Locanda Nerello, I find more playful art by British artist, Olivier Mourão. Original features also hide in plain sight: one bedroom was once the site of grape squashing for wine, another is an old mill, and right at the hotel’s entrance, an ancient well has been converted into a wine cellar. Many rooms have original tile features and lava stone walls, while the whole estate hums with a kind of rustic, rugged-edged luxury.

Many of Monaci delle Terre Nera’s villas have their own pools, surrounded by a handful of loungers and plentiful grass. Otherwise, lounge beside the main communal pool, which is serene all day long with vibey music, interrupted only by a buzzy lunchtime rush to the pool bar. The pool’s ice cold water descends gradually to deepness much like a beach, with rocking chair-like seats waiting on the shore to be perched upon. Bougainvillea climbs the building behind the bar – where drinks are served daily from 11am–6pm – with petals floating across the grass in the gentle breeze, many dried to a crisp by the summer sun. This is the place to be if relaxation is the order of the day. Elevate your zen with a massage, available in your villa or outside immersed in nature.

For more of an active day, Etna is your oyster: Monaci is happy to arrange expeditions up the mountain, tours of the estate on horseback or bikes, wine tastings, cooking classes, cocktail masterclasses and informative botanical walks soaking up the best of the estate. Further afield, Sicily’s ancient cities are around an hour’s drive away and eagerly await your exploration, from Taormina to Noto, Syracuse to Messina.

The communal pool

The Final World

La dolce vita isn’t only found on the Italian coast: Monaci delle Terre Nere is an idyll for all, from honeymooners to intergenerational family travellers to adventure lovers. While it is totally imbued with Sicilian authenticity, Monaci shines all the brighter for rebutting every presumption you have about this storied, honeypot island.

BOOK IT

Nightly rates at Monaci delle Terre Nere start from around £475 per night with breakfast. monacidelleterrenere.it

Getting There

Monaci delle Terre Nere is located within easy reach of Catania airport and Sicily’s ancient town of Taormina. Transfers to and from the airport can be arranged for 85€ each way.