Is This The Most Glamorous Hotel In Courchevel?

The Hôtel Barrière Les Neiges might be the most elegant hotel in the Three Valleys – and possibly even the world – according to Tessa Dunthorne‘s review. 

Review: Hôtel Barrière Les Neiges

Luxury hotels in the Alps are facing stiff competition these days. Seasoned skiers with a penchant for the finer things are shifting their gazes to serviced chalets. But for me, a hotel like Les Neiges represents the hey-day of Alpine hospitality – a grand hotel the king of the mountain, the concierge knows your name, and luxury was more than a private chef on call. If you’re wondering whether to opt for a hotel over a chalet this season (or the next), Les Neiges makes the irresistible case for why you should. 

The Prestige Junior Suite

STAY

Hôtel Barrière Les Neiges is divine – opened in 2016, it was designed by Nathalie Ryan (KIREI STUDIO) and it’s all Alpine-chic turned up to ten. Think pale larch woods, furs and cashmere throws, and soft padded carpet. Tactile, soft stuff. The beds are large enough that you could comfortably host a small entourage. And if you value a room with a view, most suites come with a private balcony, some overlooking the piste – perfect for assessing the morning ski conditions without ever leaving your cocoon. 

Bathrooms are kitted out with Hermès products (and not just the miniatures), their signature citrus scents lingering well after you’ve finished a soak in the jacuzzi bath. The his-and-her vanities enjoy light-up mirrors that flatter you more than an Instagram filter, and the Toto toilets are as high-tech and confusing as ever, but a must for the European jetset these days. 

Outdoor dining at LOULOU looks out onto the slopes

EAT

You’re hardly scrounging here. The hotel’s newest restaurant, Loulou Courchevel, is an export from Paris, but brings refined Italian fare with a Piedmont twist. Expect truffle pizzas adorned with gargantuan Mickey Mouse ears of the stuff and scallops bathing in chartreuse and green sauce, to be mopped up with bread. 

Down the hall, La Table Savoyarde is the hotel’s more traditional alpine answer to dining. It’ll fill you up on such a gluttonous amount of (local) cheese and (local) wine that you should plan for the additional heft on the slopes the next day. 

Either which way you’re tempted, you must plump for the dessert bar – such a special, unique offer. Millefeuille, riz au lait, tarte citron, mousse… The options are dizzying. Prefer a more savoury night cap? The cognac bar is a superlative denouement.

For those who value a more private dining experience, room service is hardly a tray on the bed. Expect the same restaurant quality fare with a fully-dressed table, and a steamy dish that rocks up only moments after you’ve placed the kitchen order. Best enjoyed from your balcony.

It’s pretty flawless from a service perspective, and frequently above and beyond. By the second breakfast of the visit, the staff had my name down, my allergies, and also the quirks of my coffee order. It’s seamless hospitality that could teach many Michelin-starred establishments a thing or two.

DO

You probably don’t need us to state the obvious, but the skiing here is truly tremendous. The hotel perches on the Bellecote slope and only a quick slide from the chair lifts. You’re moments from beginners’ slopes, and whether you’re a snow-footed pro or Bambi on ice, there’s a run for you. Ski school meeting points for the kiddies are a snow plough away. 

Each day, your ritual of course begins in the boot room, although to call this a ‘boot room’ undersells it – it’s more boutique fashion gallery meets cutesy tea cosy meets specialist equipment store. Should you fancy packing nothing you could feasibly pick up every single item you might need for a full season in the Alps. The staff here will help you into your boots (pre-warmed!), identify your skis (laid out with a delicate flag denoting your room number), and help you troubleshoot any aches or pains. Stop here again when your legs begin to tire between runs for a quick pick me up and a coffee – there’s a snack bar. 

The hot tub in the snow

Legs getting tired? You’re in luck: the Spa Diane Barriere is set over two floors with what seems like endless treatment rooms – including a hamman room – so you’ll never need to fight for a last-minute appointment. And my god, the spa. The pool is fantastic but the real jewel is the prettily-set hot tub that sits outside, frosted with snow and backlit by dainty fairy lights. Picture perfect. Treatments here (like the blissful Balinese deep tissue massage) use products from Balmain, so are both gentle on you and curated with planet in mind. Less gentle might be the Nordic ice bath, for a shock to the system that’s supposed to be very, very good for you. 

But should all that relaxing get boring, you really must try snowmobile touring. The hotel can arrange it – they can arrange all sorts of adventures, whether it’s this or using its own (its own!) hot air balloon – in a snap at the front desk. This is somewhat like go carting but you’re in the snow, the dark, and facing the vertical drop of cliffs; you’ll feel a bit like James Bond even though you’re at most pushing 40mph. A hard to beat thrill from a hotel that already feels like it has it all. 

BOOK IT

Doubles from £1,418 a night, B&B. hotelsbarriere.com