The Bell At Skenfrith: A Super Relaxing Countryside Stay

A stay in the countryside doesn’t come much more romantic than The Bell at Skenfrith. Tucked away in the Welsh Marches, this seventeenth century coaching inn sits by gentle hills, overlooking a meandering river and the ruins of a Plantagenet castle. It’s perfect for anyone who wants an away-from-it-all break. Or indeed, just anyone.

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Hotel Review: The Bell at Skenfrith

STAY

The Bell at Skenfrith, which has won many awards, oozes old-fashioned comfort, from flop-on sofas by a big log fire to a bright open bar where sherry is poured from a crystal decanter. The hotel, managed by Maria and her chef partner Joseph Colman, is run with charm and efficiency: dogs are welcomed (there is a cleaning station outside), muddy boots are asked to be removed in the flagstone lobby area and useful tips on excellent local ales and walks (and, in fact, local anything!) are helpfully offered. You will arrive for a couple of days and wish you were staying for a week.

There are only 11 bedrooms, each named after dry flies used in trout fishing. We were in No 8 – Barrett’s Bane, opposite Coch-A-Bon-Ddu (a round beetle, in case you didn’t know).

The rooms, decorated in white and dusky greys, greens or pastel blues combine period details like wooden beams, low-ish ceilings and ancient slanting floors with big restful beds, curl-into armchairs and soft lighting.

Prints of local flowers and animal life, as well as local tea, coffee and The Bell at Skenfrith’s very own homemade shortbread, celebrate all things Welsh. The little adjoining sitting-room invites relaxation while the lack of shower in our large spic and span bathroom only emphasised this further: wallowing in the tub while gazing at the sheep-dotted hills was bliss.

Guests come from far and wide: Australia to Abergavenny. And the great local ale and the easy, drop-in ambience of the bar and restaurant, ensure many keep coming back.

The Bell Bar

DO

The Bell at Skenfrith sits by the River Monnow where you can go fly fishing (with a permit from one of the several nearby clubs) or simply enjoy a stroll, spotting deer and birds of prey. The hotel website lists six circular walks of varying levels, which can be printed out or downloaded and followed on a mobile (the phone signal is variable). History buffs will love visiting old Skenfrith Castle, just opposite as well as its two nearby sister castles, Grosmont and White Castle, built in the thirteenth century to impose Norman control over the border. The medieval map, Mappe Mundi can be viewed in Hereford Cathedral, Hereford, about half an hour’s drive away.

The medieval church in Skenfrith is a must, and in the summer it is possible to swim in the river. Nearby Monmouth has a historic centre (Henry V was born here) and is a good starting point for hiking some of the long trail, Offa’s Dyke. On the edge of Skenfrith, Blackbrook Garden is open for visits by groups of 10 to 15 by appointment between April and September, and there are also Growing in the Border gardening courses held at the Blackbrook estate throughout the year. Abergavenny has an annual food festival on the third weekend of September.

The Bell Restaurant

EAT

Head Chef Joseph Colman takes pride in sourcing as much local produce as possible and the hearty modern British menu features Brecon beef and Herefordshire lamb. Fish is from nearby Cardiff Bay. Vegetables and fruit come from trusted regional suppliers – including the hotel’s own kitchen garden. I particularly enjoyed my venison which was accompanied by an excellent Rioja. No surprise that the restaurant is included in the Michelin Guide.

Come the morning, the full Welsh breakfast includes everything from local sausage and mouth-watering bacon to black pudding. Lighter choices, such as avocado and eggs on toast, or simply granola and fruit, are also available.

The dining room is spacious and smart without being stuffy; if the weather permits, it is also possible to eat out on the terrace by the garden, with views of those soothing hills.

The Final Word

Surrounded by stunning scenery, The Bell at Skenfrith offers super-relaxing stays with excellent traditional dining in a remarkably unspoilt, un-touristy, setting. Rural bliss at its best.

BOOK IT

Double rooms at The Bell at Skenfrith start from £185 per night. thebellatskenfrith.co.uk